The Ocean, a New Frontier for Cosmetic Innovation
Did you know that the ocean covers approximately 70% of Earth's surface? Did you also know that ocean microorganisms capture as much CO2 globally as the Amazonian forest? The ocean is an incredible source of life and innovation if preserved well.
The ocean as a source of inspiration for cosmetic innovation
The latest documentary, OCEAN, by David Attenborough - released on the 8th of May - demonstrates the current interest in the topic.
The film takes viewers deep into the vastness of the marine world, highlighting its vulnerability to human impact. It is a poignant reminder that protecting 80% of the Earth’s surface - our oceans - is critical to life on our planet. Through breathtaking footage of coral reefs, kelp forests, and open ocean expanses, Attenborough reveals the power and richness of the sea, urging us to preserve its delicate balance as a cornerstone of planetary stability.
Cosmetic players align with this vision, multiplying their efforts to create more sustainable, sea-inspired products that respect marine ecosystems.
Brands actively protecting marine life
With the shared goals of ocean preservation and clean, natural formulations, French brands - benefiting from over 5,500 km of coastline - are innovating through research and marine biotechnology.
In Brittany, Phytomer has embodied marine-based, eco-conscious beauty for 50 years. It cultivates and transforms marine actives via biotechnology in a responsible model: local sourcing, controlled production, and a continuous focus on reducing environmental impact.
Another example, Laboratoires de Biarritz, leverages red algae from the Basque coast in certified organic sun care. Their model is deeply rooted in local ecosystems and gentle extraction methods that respect marine biodiversity.
In Guidel, Océau Marine transforms Breton seaweed into nutrient-rich cosmetic ingredients. Their artisanal and local commitment reflects a resource-conscious approach.
Based in Arcachon, Ostrealia offers skincare derived from oyster extract, rich in minerals and trace elements. By upcycling a local by-product, they promote a circular approach to marine beauty.
On the island of Ouessant, Nividiskin creates dermocosmetic treatments from Undaria pinnatifida brown algae, hand-harvested in a protected marine area. This island-based brand is deeply committed to traceability and ecosystem preservation.
Other French brands like Oskol (near Biarritz) and Algologie are also emerging as key players in seaweed and ocean-inspired beauty.
Across the Atlantic, clean biotech beauty pioneer Biossance has partnered with Oceana, an international marine conservation NGO. With its limited-edition #SeaTheDifference campaign, the brand donates part of its proceeds to concrete actions restoring marine ecosystems while raising awareness among its customers.
Ingredient innovation for greater efficacy, naturality, and regeneration
Innovation also lies in raw materials. At in-cosmetics Global, Brittany-based supplier Codif introduced Pantodium Cica, a certified organic marine ingredient derived from fermented seaweed. Once applied to the skin, it naturally activates the production of vitamin B5 through the skin’s microbiota. The result: enhanced regeneration, improved hydration, and visibly reduced redness. It offers a high-performing, biotech-based alternative to D-Panthenol—both natural and powerful.
In terms of sustainable marine ingredient production, GreenSea stands out with its closed-system cultivation of seaweed. This approach reduces pressure on natural ecosystems while ensuring full traceability—ideal for responsible, effective beauty formulations.
OriginByOcean, another innovator in ingredients, are reimagining the chemical industry by transforming harmful algae into high-value, sustainable 100% bio-based & biodegradable ingredients for consumer goods. They extract multiple valuable compounds from Algae with two recently launched functional ingredients – OceanThix™ alginate and OceanBoost™ fucoidan.
Ocean-inspired packaging solutions
Blue innovation extends to packaging. Award-winning company Notpla has developed biodegradable, algae-based packaging materials that are “plastic-free.” These innovations replace traditional plastic films used in solid cosmetics and single-use samples, fully breaking down in the marine environment.
Another promising initiative is Oceanium, a start-up creating natural seaweed-based inks. Designed for use in packaging printing, these inks provide a sustainable alternative to conventional petroleum-based ones. It’s a key breakthrough toward 100% bio-based, compostable packaging.
As our oceans face mounting threats—and hold immense potential—the beauty industry is embracing a regenerative, ocean-respecting approach. From marine-derived formulas to plastic-free packaging, a new wave of blue innovation is rising, led by committed brands, pioneering suppliers, and a growing demand for sustainability. Far from a passing trend, this shift is an essential response to today’s ecological challenges.
To mark the 15th anniversary of the MakeUp in Paris trade show, the organization is launching a brand-new award dedicated to ocean-inspired beauty. First introduced at MakeUp in Los Angeles, this initiative aims to spotlight innovations that both harness and protect marine resources.
To illustrate this theme, I will host a conference at MakeUp in Paris: "Ocean Beauty : biotechnologies et sourcing marin façonnent l'avenir de la beauté - Le 18 Juin 2025 à 16h "
