Longevity and Biomimetism were among the trends at InCosmetics in Paris

InCosmetics was back in the event calendar in Paris this year with a vivid exhibition and a packed 3 days. Innovations seemed less strong in appearance, but deep in Research and Development in my opinion. In other words, innovations may have looked a bit pale to the untrained eyes but were actually quite astounding.

Longevity 

Pre-empting the signs of ageing rather than reducing the signs of ageing was amongst the main trends. In the current direction of well-ageing and a more holistic approach to beauty.

Greentech released a phyto-bioactive Timelys®, a skin longevity enhancer for timeless beauty. While maintaining cellular health, Timelys® has an intensive preventive action, acting on skin longevity mechanisms such as autophagy, for a glowing, vibrant and smoothed skin, towards timeless beauty.  A concentrated extract of adaptogen rubies of wild flora Schisandra Chinensis Superberry - symbol of Beauty and Longevity - classified among the superior medicines in Chinese medicine. The molecule, recognized for its extensive benefits in models of skin’s health and ageing, acts as a life force support through specific longevity genes, optimising essential interconnected cellular functions over time, to preserve skin quality that exudes health.

DSM won an InCosmetics awards for Eterwell youth for infinite well-ageing, powered by senolytic science. (Awarded Gold for the Innovation Zone, Best Ingredient Award, in the Active Ingredients category). It is a holistic solution for healthy ageing skin, acting on the cellular level, efficient on any skin types, ethnicities and for any age, gender. It acts at the root cause of ageing: clearing senescent (zombie) cells. This patented active, 100% of natural origin, produced from a rare plant, alpine willowherb, helps rejuvenate the healthy skin appearance, revert the skin damage induced by senescent cells. Reduces the appearance of wrinkles and helps increase the skin elasticity and smoothness with a better skin structure. It is Cosmos, Natrue organic and Fair for Life fair trade certified.

Lallemand through Evolva, released Juneo, a Trans-Resveratrol derived from a yeast metabolite (S.Cerevisiae) that provides anti-ageing effects. It has an action on the longevity gene (Sirtuin1) as it regulates the process associated with longevity and healthy ageing. A nature-based responsible Resveratrol of highest purity, made via a unique and patented white biotech fermentation process. Juneo plays a key role in detoxifying, protecting, rejuvenating and repairing damaged cells, to address skin ageing and hair protection.  

Biomimetism

Biomimetism is this trend that mimics the skin action to have more effective result connected to the skin's natural reaction. A few brands on the market are using this technology like the famous US-based HairCare treatment brand K18, or the new French pharmacy staple Mimétique.

Givaudan Active Beauty unveiled the Silk-iCare, a vegan biomimetic silk protein designed to protect and repair the skin, derived from white biotechnology. The company has developed an optimised sequence of silk proteins, produced through fermentation, to create Silk-iCare  – a pure biomimetic silk with film-forming properties. Its hydrogel structure, derived from natural silk, offers a thixotropic characteristic, resulting in a smoother application and a breathable, non-sticky finish. Silk-iCare forms a protective barrier that removes over 96% of pollution particles. Clinical studies have demonstrated a significant seven-fold reduction in pore size, as little as 15 minutes after application. Over time, the skin-repairing properties of Silk-iCare  trigger a two-fold reduction in inflammatory breakouts, perfecting skin.

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics (now part of Clariant) released a new patented biomimetic peptide obtained by a green chemistry-based process. By mimicking the LCE6A protein activity, Corneopeptyl strengthens the corneocyte envelope, resulting in a more resilient epidermal barrier with improved skin barrier function, demonstrating a reduction of skin permeability and water loss. Rebuilding the skin barrier consequently future-proofs the skin by reducing the appearance of ageing signs like wrinkles, decreasing skin roughness, and increasing skin tonicity and hydration. Corneopeptyl tackles pre-aging and anti-aging skins for both the younger and older generations.

Lipotrue released Frag-Brillin remastered, a biomimetic fragment of human fibrillin-1 produced in plants through vertical farming. Fibrillin microfibrils stretch and recoil triggering TGFβ repair response and myofibroblasts transition, enhancing cellasticity (stress fibres), contractility, adhesion, and remodelling. Their degradation results in wrinkles and sagging. Frag-Brillin remastered rebuilds elastic resilience by promoting fibrillin microfibrils and elastic fibres formation and reducing fragmentation. It instantly improves firmness and elasticity in both face and body and immediately smoothes wrinkles.

AI innovation, Peptides, Scalp Care and NeuroBeauty

AI was a strong aid to beauty innovation, either through formulation modelling or AI optimisation. Peptides were a strong focus on this year's innovation trails as well as scalp care and beauty through the support neuroscience to help overall wellbeing.

Lipotrue released SP[AI]3 is an AI-Optimized peptide for Acne Prone Skin. A Unique peptide obtained by In Silico design, through AI, with optimal binding and specificity to modulate the triad of acne players: ACC, MMP-1 and IGF-1R, modulating perfectly the three acne influencers; sebum, pore, inflammation. This triple specific targeting provides a reduction of sebum and improvement of the pore’s stiffness, helping its enclosing and reduces inflammation produced by C.acnes.

BASF released 2 years ago, a tool that now helps formulators search for the best functional ingredient to improve the sustainability score of the formula. Emollient Maestro, a BASF’s Care Creations® works through artificial intelligence (AI) modelling, to calculate ideal emollient mixes according to user briefings, and allows for the targeted replacement of industry benchmarks such as cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone or mineral oils. Emollient Maestro also supports customers in significantly accelerating their formulation design and thus their time-to-market, while promoting the Clean Beauty movement for more eco-friendly, sustainable personal care products. Depending on the users’ needs, it takes into account sensory and physico-chemical properties, the naturality index in accordance with ISO 16128, and common ecolabel certifications such as COSMOS, NaTrue or the Nordic Ecolabel. 

Another Trend - Scalp-Care continuing on the Skinification of HairCare trends which is now conquering Europe after being strongly developed in the US.

Lubrizol’s Fensebiome peptide offers new benefits to the scalp microbiota. It is a peptide that had previously shown to have transformational effects on the skin by reinforcing the double cutaneous barrier, promoting microbiota balance and enhancing the physical barrier, helping to achieve a healthier and younger appearance. The heptapeptide can now be incorporated into scalp formulations designed to reduce sensitivity, prevent dehydration, and rejuvenate the scalp as well as form part of skin care products aiming to strengthen the double cutaneous barrier, even under harsh conditions with a prebiotic and probiotic-inspired solution.

Amongst the other trends we can still notice the Neuro-Beauty trend with NeuroGlow released by Givaudan, an active for glow and good mood, and also TiMOOD by Mibelle Biochemistry, based on timut pepper, a spice plant from the Himalayas, TiMOOD can improve neuronal function in the skin and thereby increase skin homogeneity. Moreover, TiMOOD positively influences one’s mood and emotional wellbeing.

Also on the Neuro-Beauty trend, Symrise launched Flowerconcentrole®, a range of sustainably sourced olfactive flower extracts with a well-being boost, proven to target relaxation, joy, and other positive emotions for a mood-friendly sensory experience.