Latest Innovative Formulations & Processes in Sustainable Beauty
Here is an in-depth report of the formulations innovations and processes that have been released over the last few months. We only focus on the formulas and processes that have sustainable attributes.
FORMULATIONS
ACTIVES ENCAPSULATING MICROGEL
About
The BIOMIM-GEL start-up is developing a technology allowing to form an aqueous microgel formulation thanks to colloidal structures. Like a sponge, they trapp actives (hydrophilic or hydrophobic) with a controlled release.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
This microgel technology for Pickering emulsions significantly reduces the number of ingredients in the final formula, and thus significantly reduces their environmental impact, mainly due to the carbon cost of raw materials' fabrication, extraction and transport. The microgel formula is obtained without co-solvent or surfactant.
Supplier: BIOMIM’GEL
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: September 2024
NANOFIBER DELIVERY SYSTEM
About
NanoBeauty technology (electrostatically laminated nanofibers) allows the formulation of a dry sheet mask, encapsulating actives delivered onto the skin when the mask is humidified.This advanced patented technology is based on 15+ years of research of nanofibers to efficiently store and deliver active substances to the skin. Easily scalable, great for OEM customization. Biodegradable, long (3y+) shelf life, made in EU.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Nanopharma’s innovation integrates biodegradable and sustainable ingredients. The dry formula of the mask eliminates the need of preservatives. The technology helps to reduce the consumption of raw materials and minimize waste.
Supplier: NANOPHARMA
Location: Czech Republic, Europe
Release Date: October 2023
FOUNDATION AS BEAUTY SPONGE
About
You know beauty sponges? Now imagine a foundation turned into its own beauty sponge to simplify its application. That’s the innovative formula that won the Formulation Cosmetic 360 Awards. This hybrid formula is obtained thanks to a unique process that combines two manufacturing processes borrowed from non-cosmetic industries.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
The peculiar texture of the foundation removes the need for a beauty sponge to apply it. The formulation process, based on wet granulation and extrusion, is a low energy consuming, cold process. High naturality formula.
Supplier: GLOBAL BEAUTY CONSULTING
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: September 2024
D-CONCENTRATED: EVOLVING CARE
About
This highly concentrated formula can be diluted as needed, to obtain a polyvalent & multifunctional care in a customized texture. It answers the consumer’s demand for advanced personalization, proven efficacy and reduced environmental impact.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
The formula and the formulation process are designed to spare water, to avoid waste and to optimize resources use.
Supplier: COSTOMISE
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: October 2024
GLOW VITAMIN C AQUEOUS SERUM
About
Association of plant-based biotech ascorbic acid (10%), astaxanthin & tocopherol for a 100% natural glow serum. Ascorbic acid is usually from synthetic origin, and not stable in aqueous formulation. In this formula, ascorbic acid is biotech based (from wheat) and its stability is improved by the anti-oxidant complex (PAO 6 months).
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
100% natural origin, with 42% of the total ingredients coming from Organic Farming, and local production in the brand’s factory based in Brittany. Packaged in recyclable glass, reducing plastic waste and environmental impact.
Supplier: LABORATOIRE KALON
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: May 2024
HELICAL EMULSION TECHNOLOGY
About
This highly natural yet highly premium texture introduces a brand new emulsion matrix, in an helical design. It has been created with the idea of rethinking the structuration of its main pillars: texturizing agents, emulsifiers, and emollients. For each one, the latest innovation has been selected. The result is a biomimetic, highly sensorial, natural, and multifunctional fine matrix with a second skin effect.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
99% of the ingredients are either natural or nature identical, leading to a highly biodegradable product. The production process is compatible with a concentrate/dilution method, allowing a significant energy saving during industrialization.
Supplier: EXPERIS
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: November 2024
REHYDRATABLE FACE CREAM
About
Lessonia adds a new formula to its rehydratable & refillable range, with a waterless face cream. Boosted with marine actives and plant-based hyaluronic acid, the powder-to-cream anti-aging formula is based on advancements in rehydratable powder formulation.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
The whole range is designed to significantly reduce the carbon footprint, water use, and energy consumption compared to water based products. The formula + reusable packaging combination shows a reduction of the carbon footprint, water usage and energy consumption (reduced weight and volume of the finished product lead to lower transportation emissions).
Supplier: LESSONIA
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: February 2024
NEOS: BIOSOURCED DETERGENTS
About
Because sustainability should also concern manufacturing lines, Symbiose Environnement just launched a complete line of biosourced & Ecocert certified detergents for cosmetic production facilities. These high-performance cleaning solutions can be used for clean-in-place, soaking, and manual cleaning, coupled with effectiveness on all cosmetic products
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Based upon advancements in green chemistry, they are formulated with biosourced & sustainable ingredients, free from CMR. Easily biodegradable according to the 301 F OECD norm.
Supplier: SYMBIOSE ENVIRONNEMENT
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: June 2024
EDELWEISS BLOSSOM MASK
About
A dry sheet mask made of high quality natural fabric, adorned with delicate flowers, developed in collaboration with Naturepad GmbH. It is designed to be infused with a serum, enriched with powerful active ingredients from the mountains, developed in collaboration with Mibelle Biochemistry. The innovative dry sheet mask can be associated with customized formula.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
The sheet mask is made of biodegradable lyocell from renewable sources. As it is dry, it can be disposed in a minimalist packaging (multiple dry masks in a single cardboard case) to reduce the use of plastic and packaging waste.
Supplier: TECHNATURE
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: October 2024
PROCESSES
MICROALGAE AS BIOFACTORIES
About
Alga Biologics is a French start-up turning microalgae into biofactories to produce custom recombinant proteins and peptides.
The patented microalgae-based manufacturing platform already produces a human antibody, and the firm aims to extend its offer to the cosmetic industry. A single microalgae can produce custom proteins, peptides and peptides blends (up to 3 peptides).
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Microalgae are cultivated in a simple culture media, leading to an easy extraction process with a high purity rate. The culture process with LED needs less energy, and provides CO2 fixation.
Supplier: ALGA BIOLOGICS
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: March 2023
ALCOHOL FREE SUSTAINABLE PERFUMERY
About
Ixchel Technologies, a French start-up, deployed and patented a unique technology to develop perfumes and perfumery raw materials in water in a natural way and with a very low energy impact, obtaining a stable and transparent result.
The process leads to hydrophilic alcohol-free perfumery preparations (perfume gel, perfume, raw materials) without additives (surfactants), so they remain transparent (nano emulsion).
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
This patented deep-tech technology offers energy frugality (less than an electric shaver) and doesn’t need high temperature (cold process).
Supplier: IXCHEL TECHNOLOGIES
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: March 2025
ULTRASEVUM™ EXTRACTION PROCESS
About
Combining the use of tree sap as NADES (Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents) and ultrasounds, UltraSevum™ extraction process already lead to the launch of Linodermine, a multibenefit active from linseed. UltraSevum™ won the 2024 Cosmetic 360 Awards in the Manufacturing Process category.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
UltraSevum™ uses tree sap, a natural and renewable resource, as a solvent. Without petrochemical solvents, the process minimizes waste and lowers the extraction’s carbon footprint.
Supplier: ARBORETUM INGREDIENTS / IMCD
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: April 2024
YLANG EXTRACTION UPGRADED
About
Mayotte is world-known for the quality of its Ylang and its essential oil. But the distillation process is associated with wood and water consumption and a substantial environmental impact. Neosent’s approach aims to bring a sustainable and fair distillation based on optimizing energy efficiency, maximizing water and waste reusing along all the extraction process.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Unlike traditional methods, Neosent’s process (solar panels, waste and water management) significantly reduces environmental impact. Studies show that optimized distillation units emit 50 fewer tons of CO2 annually.
Supplier: NEOSENT
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: March 2025
VERTICAL FARMING
About
Futura Gaïa's biofactories ensure scalable and perfectly reproducible conditions. They reproduce indoors the cultivation parameters needed to produce plants of interest on a large scale. They meet the needs of the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, nutraceutical and perfumery industries by providing high-quality ingredients without pesticides, unparalleled microbiological quality, and optimized levels of active compounds.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Vertical farming of wild species in a controlled environment prevents over-exploitation of the natural resource, and avoids the competition for cultivable land.
Supplier: FUTURA GAIA TECHNOLOGIES
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: April 2024
AUTOMATIC MINI-LAB
About
The mini-lab, that can be deployed in point of sales or beauty salons, meets the need for personalized skincare by allowing users to create fresh, custom formulas on demand. It caters to individual skin needs, offering over 6,400 combinations of active ingredients, ensuring effective, tailored treatments for every skin type, all while minimizing waste.
The product is instantly formulated with separated water and encapsulated raw ingredients for an on-demand mixing.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Reusable airless bottles, reusable capsules, capsules 100% made of ocean waste plastic, products from natural origin, water separated (no need to carry 80% of the product weight).
Supplier: EMUAGE
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: September 2024
NEOCOSM
About
NeoCosm's technology is based on the patented Powder-Liquid co-Jetting (PLcJ)® process, which brings directed flows of powders and liquids into localised contact to produce industrial-quality textured products. Eliminating the need for mechanical homogenisation, reducing energy consumption and limiting cleaning requirements, this process, which can be used in small electrical appliances, automatic dispensers and industrial processes, opens up the possibility of continuous, on-demand production of products with tailor-made galenics and textures.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Reduced energy consumption, highly customizable products.
Supplier: RHEONIS, SQUAREXPERT & TECTIC
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: December 2024
