What happened in New York

What happened in New York

Eva Lagarde

MakeUp in New York has closed the doors of its 12th edition with a bang. A great program of conferences and a great variety and quality of exhibitors from luxury packaging, to make-up and skincare formulas or accessories.

Here are live video reviews at the show on our Instagram.

The TALKS program gave visitors a great array of in-depth information about current trends in the beauty market.

What we learned from the talks

  • Material Science is bringing in new ideas and new ways to make packaging thanks to partnerships with solution provider Element and Carbon Capture start-up Oco. Sebba Alqetrani from MAC also points out that we need to build a better future with smarter materials through smarter partnerships.
  • Waterless beauty is not necessarily just about saving water but using less packaging since the formula needs less protection as Onélogy founder Roxana mentioned in her talk. The market needs to be educated about this new format of beauty products, and we need to create enjoyable textures above all to ensure consumer adoption.
Madison Savilow - Oco, Sebba Alqetrani - MAC, Nick Gardner - Element
  • Formulating sunscreen for the global market is challenging considering that in North America Sunscreens are classified as Over-the-Counter (OTC) drugs/pharmaceuticals when they are treated as cosmetics in the European Union. It creates limitations in the use of certain active or cosmetic ingredients and may hinder the texture and rendering aspect  " Beyond protection, users want a product that feels" explained Dujon, founder of MyBlockSkin.
  • Global compliance is complex for all formulations, following one standard - Sephora Clean - can prevent " “clean” standards are not harmonized (or regulated for that matter) we do know it matters to the consumer so we want to ensure we’re formulating to maintain that status even amidst constant changes." explained Jessica Abrams from Summer Fridays.

On the exhibition side, we discover captivating innovations.

Trends in product innovations

The trends in formulation is to keep bringing the bar higher when it comes to natural formula without compromising the aesthetic and the efficacy. However, in some instances, a few brands are requesting a decrease from over 90% of natural ingredients sometimes to figures of about 80% to ensure maximum results, especially for colour cosmetics.

As an example of the Natural trend, MS Beautilab released a Translucent makeup removing spheres, formulated with over 93% ingredients from natural origin, without PEGs, Silicone or Preservatives. They are applied by massage onto the skin. At skin temperature, the spheres transform into a soft, fluid oil that will effectively remove all traces of makeup and impurities.

On the colour side B.Kolor Makeup & Skincare developed a tinted primer obtained using a cold formulation process, for an emulsion that is light and sensorial. Thanks to an innovative gelling agent capable of encapsulating a large quantity of water, its mousse-gel texture is fresh and moisturizing, while providing even coverage.

The trends in packaging were around the upgraded version of refills with solutions that offer more intuitive usage for the consumer and high luxury items, and also enhance experience through packaging, and of course focus on sustainability.

As an example, Axilone developed a complete packaging solution for recyclable and refillable lipsticks, with numerous options in terms of shapes, mechanisms and diameters. It is customizable with infinite possibilities for creating premium, long-lasting lipsticks.

For instance, Faber Castell released a refillable pencil which contains a refillable cartridge that can be easily removed and is exclusively adapted to its barrel. It works like an ordinary pencil with a twist mechanism. All components are single-material polypropylene (PP).

Pibiplast developed a dropper with a thin, retractable dropper tip for precise application. Compact with twist-lock closure, it can be used with just one hand. Made from a single PP material, it’s compressible, hygienic and clean because it doesn’t spill.

And last but not least Cosmopak has created a compact case with stackable, easily nestable inserts that can include various shades or several formulas. Made with a blend of certified paper pulp and sugarcane pulp by-product, it is biodegradable.

Feel free to browse the MakeUp in New York website for more insights.