Beauty Innovations found at MakeUp in Paris

Beauty Innovations found at MakeUp in Paris

Eva Lagarde

The make-up and skin care boutique event of the year was back in Paris, ahead of its usual time, to accommodate the calendar of the Olympic Games, and I have to say, you have to be in an Olympian shape to visit that show, as there were so many great surprises to find.

SkinCare section

First of all, the show is now also developing the skincare segment with dedicated exhibitors, as evidenced by the floorplan. MakeUp in as been expanding into skincare for a few years, and the innovation was up to the task with IT Awards winners like B-KolorMakeUp & kinCare Spa with its GRAFFITI Luminous Spray “ A refreshing, hydrating liquid spray blush that revolutionises makeup application. This coloured mist, designed to sculpt and illuminate the face, is sprayed onto a sponge or brush and then softly blended into the cheeks. The colour seamlessly melts into the skin, creating a luminous finish. Its formula features natural esters, a polyethylene glycol-free emulsifier, micronized mica pigments, and a mix of natural pearls.


A new lipstick mechanism

Suppliers were creative, including a newcomer in the beauty scene ; C.A.P (Clever Alternative Products) ; founded by Industry veteran Thierry de Baschmakoff amongst other professionals.

The concept creates a new way to design a lipstick, yet, remains intuitive and does not change the way consumers would use or hold this iconic beauty item.

Looking at current lipstick mechanisms, the sleeve goes up and down and must remain standard in design to offer a sleek surface to allow the mechanism to work smoothly, so the bulk can move up and down. In some cases, the mechanism is called “guided” when lipstick formula is tightly moulded to the sleeve, so it doesn’t break at usage. When the lipstick is “non-guided” it means that the formula is somewhat “harder” and the bulk can stand on its own, even when applied to the lips with a little pressure.

The product can be made in mono-material and in renewable materials like mBlack from mPackting for instance.

Now with the new concept, only the sleeve around the bulk moves and the bulk remains in place, and potential breakage is prevented since the user can’t “squash” the bulk with the cap. Imaginative!

100 % recyclable thermoformed sample.

Livcer has released a new thermoformed dose made from 100% PE making it 100% recyclable.  It was almost impossible to make a fully recyclable thermoformed dose before due to the lack of sealability of the material that was used in the process. For this kind of product a mix of PE and PET was used before with a maximum of 50% recycled PET to ensure product safety.

Today, thanks to this innovation, oil or water based formulas can be safely packed as well as make-up or other forms of colour or skincare formulas. The material used offers enough barrier functionality thanks to its natural preserving properties and thickness used in the manufacturing.

Real-Time Carbon Impact Calculator

HongKong based agency Concept4, that develops accessories and gifts has developed an internal tool to measure and provide CO2 impact on all its products. The impact is measured on Cradle-To-Gate emissions, and gives brands clear information about their product before development.

They are also developing products from recycled and/or recyclable materials wherever possible.

Luxurious Full Aluminium range

Axilone has extended its full aluminium range with lipstick, jumbo sticks as well as compacts and other make-up products. The compact can be made in full aluminium, including the mirror for luxury and full recyclability. They have also created a full aluminium mascara with an aluminium wand for 100% mono-material packaging.

Axilone has also released a “heavy cap” in full alu for full recyclability. So they offer 2 ranges of light or heavy aluminium with a patented in-house technology. 

Aluminium and paper-pulp refills

Morrama design Agency and PPK released the Maya Refillable Lipstick Packaging made with a full alu outer packaging and mechanism with a pulp insert for the bulk.  They won the IT awards in the packaging category “ A refillable lipstick case made of aluminium, with the refill made from a material composed of bamboo pulp and bagasse resembling paper. Combining luxury with sustainability, its casing offers a velvety, smooth texture and an ergonomic shape that comfortably fits in the hand. Ingeniously designed, the refill smoothly slides into the case with a simple twist. Each lipstick case can be personalised.

Innovative brushes

HNB Corporation, Korean brush manufacturer,  released packaging made from corn and PLA. Called the Vase brush or Oblique mini corn brush, the innovative designs are made with Fibre from 60% corn and handle with 100% PLA.


On-the-go make-up palette

On the formulation side, Chromavis released “Carte Blanche” , a powder printed card where the formula is activated with water, for an “on-the-go” application. “A groundbreaking concept in portable makeup: the first water-activated makeup powder presented on paper. This unique, patent-pending technology is a reengineered version of a patented formula, delivering an authentic product without traditional packaging. The blank card format allows unlimited creative opportunities for brands to captivate their customers. Ideal for travel and lightweight, it is fully customizable in terms of product type, design, and available in various shapes. The prototype is showcased on FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certified paper. “ expressed the make-up formulator.

Sensorial Formulations

Anjac group developed formulas with a focus on science and the circadian rhythm for a “round the clock” beauty routine. They release several sticks based on their AquaStick technology with a high percentage of water in the formula for a fresh feel at application, and instant moisturising effect. Sicaf presented its latest technology called airflow focused on sensorial and playful yet hyper efficacious formulas, adding more and less emollient to obtain desired results : for light, airy, whipped creamed like effects. Silicone free these formulas are applicable for skincare masks, moisturisers, cleansers and also bodycare with body cream for unctuosity and nourishment.