PACKAGING INNOVATIONS - Brand side

WASTE HIERARCHY

The waste management hierarchy indicates an order of preference for action to reduce and manage waste, and to create a more sustainable product

The hierarchy captures the progression of a material or product through successive stages of waste management, and represents the latter part of the life cycle of a product.

The aim of the waste hierarchy is to extract the maximum practical benefits from products and to generate the minimum amount of waste.

Nowadays, we focus on the 3 central R of the waste hierarchy, but this is expanding. In the following survey we have classified the brands’ innovations into REDUCE, REUSE, RECYCLE or RECOVER STAGES for new products on the market.

publication date - 1st Sept 2022

SDGs impact
In this report, the following UN SDG targets are applicable:

01 - REDUCE - Aluminium, Glass ore reduced plastics packaging

HOW TO REDUCE YOUR PACKAGING

There are many ways to REDUCE the environmental impact of your packaging:

• Reduce energy consumption at sourcing, manufacturing, transportation
• Reduce material use or source bio-materials
• Reduce weight of your overall packaging
• Reduce the thickness of the walls of your bottle, jar, box or else
• Remove Labels, inner parts or extra packaging
• Use packaging with multi functionalities: holder, brand leaflet engraved inside paperboard,

WHAT MATTERS

WHAT MATTERS, the french personal care range, which launched in 2020, is not very new in the market now and you may have already seen it, but in case you missed it, we wanted to remind you that they have developed a patented glass for their refillable bathroom products.

The glass is lined with a fine plastic layer to hold it together in case of breakage in the bathroom (It’s like a « securit » glass used for car for example). This packaging also has an anti-slippery effect, it help hold it with wet hands.

The plastic layer is so thin, that it wouldn’t prevent recyclability.

glass supplier: Verescence.

KAN KAN

KAN KAN the liquid refill soap from London, UK is housing its refills into a « can » packaging. Ingenious idea and way to reduce development cost and manufacturing of packaging.

It shows that clever and honest marketing works towards sustainability purposes, and the can is fully recyclable and can be integrated into an existing recycling stream.

The main soap is housed in “durable” glass packaging.

LOOPECO to grow flowers

Bio-contributive packaging brand Loopeco.

The Loopeco brand is housed in Aluminium tubes or amber glass jars with a cork and wood lid. The jar is 100% recyclable or can be kept as a keepsake or to reuse, the cork is 100% compostable. The label is made from FSC certified paper. The ingredients card is made of 100% post-consumer materials embedded with wildflower seeds.In the same vein, a german brand has launched a “plantable” eyeliner called Sprout. The wooden eyeliner once finished can just be planted in soil to grow wildflowers.

YODI BEAUTY

Yodi offers vegan and organic powder cleansers for face, body and hair which are packaged in aluminum bottles, with the cap made from recyclable PP. There is no secondary packaging.

The powder formula allows for easy storage and transportation in an aluminium bottle.

Similar brand in the US market, called Susteau has launched the Moondust hairash with a powder transformative haircare with bottles and refills made of HDPE from over 95% ocean-bound, recycled plastic. Cap made with 10% ocean-bound, recycled plastic. 100% recycle ready.

FACE STONE by Kate McLeod

Innovative solid face moisturizer melts on contact and intensely nourishes the skin. A blend of nine antioxidant rich oils and butters balances, brightens, and locks in hydration without clogging pores. Suitable for all skin types.

The stone acts as a massage tool at application. The stone is applied on a clean face once or twice depending on moisture level required. Packaged in glass and bamboo.

Kate McLead is a brand created by eponymous founder, pastry chef, she blended and launched her first body stones, acting as moisturisers, in 2018.

Launch date of the face stone, April 2021

L’OCCITANE

Working closely with Tubex, L’occitane has developed a tube made of 95% PCR aluminium and 5% PIR aluminium. (PCR – Post Consumer Recycled, PIR – Post Industrial Recycled).

The 5% derived from industrial waste help adjust the chemical and mechanical composition of the whole product to obtain a unique alloy, while preserving both aesthetics and the properties of standard aluminium tubes, and ensuring endless recyclability.

JUNI COSMETICS

With an aluminium-only packaging, the British family-owned brand Juni Cosmetics wanted to produce a 100% plastic-free, recyclable makeup line with a unique design.

Interesting note about this product: it only uses virgin aluminium which consumers 95% more energy in the making as recycled aluminium, and the fact that is a single use and non a reusable product makes the carbon footprint questionable even though the line is fully recyclable.

As mentioned elsewhere about marketing claims. It’s important to consider the full life cycle of a product and not just one aspect, like the recyclability here.

BIORE

Kao Corporation has developed the Raku-raku Switch, which dispenses a fixed amount of liquid contents with one light push, for use with the film-type Raku-raku Eco Pack Refill, which uses less plastic compared with bottle containers.

This packaging design reduces plastic use by approximately 50% compared with plastic bottles with a pump dispenser. The Raku-raku Switch was launched with Bioré u The Body - Body Lotion for Wet Skin, in September 2020.

When the user presses the button on the Raku-raku Switch, a fixed amount of the liquid contents is dispensed, making it possible for the technology to replace the function of standard pump dispenser. This packaging technology offers user-friendliness based on universal design and can help increase the use of film packaging that uses a minimal amount of plastic.

Given this, Kao plans to study its application in a wide range of products going forward.

AUTHORED

The 4 SKU make-up range is made of Aluminium and is deemed fully recyclable except for the mascara which is 95% recyclable. The outer of mascara is aluminium, inner wand is detachable and non currently recyclable (the 5%).

The brand is also claiming “carbon neutrality” thanks to investment into carbon offset practices, including ocean plastics capture and recycling through the Plastic Bank.
Cardboard boxes to host the range are made with recycled fibers.

Aluminium supplier: Alupro

CHANEL N°1

Chanel has released a new range called N°1 (anti-aging, skincare and makeup) with lightweighting of all packagings, and the use of recycled, bio-based or recyclable materials and limiting the use of plastics.

The weight of the jars and bottles in the range is an average of 30% lighter compared to other Chanel packs of similar capacity.
The new line also removes the use of cellophane and paper leaflets. Organic inks decorate the glass bottles, while on the lids, the brand’s logo is engraved in the mold rather than reproduced using ink.*The Revitalizing Cream’s lid is made using camellia seed shells, as well as FSC-certified wood shavings, incorporating 90% bio- sourced materials in total (from Sulapac).
The cream comes in a patented, refillable glass jar said to be 50% lighter. Refilling the jar twice cuts down on greenhouse gas emissions by 50%, according to Chanel.*
* sources Luxe Packaging Insights

GIRL by ROCHAS

The new fragrance by Rochas has been made with environmentally friendly design and content at the core

The bottle is made of 40% recycled glass (PCR) which the brand claims to allow a reduction of 9% of the carbon footprint, 9% of natural resources used and also a 12% reduction in water use during manufacturing.

The lacquer of the glass that decorates the upper half is water soluble and contains less than 5% solvent. It also dries at lower temperatures which saves around 30% of energy compared to previous generations of water-soluble lacquers.

The bottle is printed with a process pad printing process, using organic inks which saves 50% energy compared to the previous generation of organic inks.

The cap is made with 39.36% recycled plastic (PCR) with no insert of steel for weight, but rather a partly recycled plastic weight.

OQUIST

Oquist is waterless and multifunction Latvian skincare brand launched in the summer 2021.

The brand claims that “by eliminating water from our formulations we ensure a super potent and multifunctional product without preservatives at the same time as we reduce our Carbon Footprint by ~80%.”

Housed in terracotta packaging, created in collaboration with ceramic artists, the brand is developing 4 multifunctional products, starting with an Anti-aging serum, which has 6 in 1 function (neck, day, night, eye care as well as makeup remover and aftershave).

AYUNA

Ayuna is a “meditation spanish skincare brand who house their natural formulas in glass or ceramic packaging.

The latest launch is the “Vivifying Skin-D Nectar”, is in a stoneware anthracite black packaging, and is priced at 454€ in Europe.

The brand claims to offer only the purest and most natural ingredients developed with the latest technologies.

The brand is offering an “emotional” experience rather than just a functional element and promote this aspect through its packaging.

BARBARIE COMPAGNIE

New french brand has developed a unique packaging for it’s single product, hosting prickly pear seed oil.

The packaging is made of glass only (including cap with no plastic, or glue or else). The cap is based on a rotate and lock concept that keeps the product safe.
The amber colour of the glass offers natural UV protection to the oil.

BERNARDAUD PORCELAIN JARS

Guerlain
The Cream nestles in a jewel-shaped porcelain jar hand-crafted by Maison Bernardaud.
The cream jar is refillable.

Sothys - La crème 128
Refillable handmade porcelain pot individually numbered and exclusive. Made by Bernardaud.
The Refill for this cream is also available.
Size 50 ml

GLASS & ALUMINIUM

Glass & Aluminium are mostly interesting environmentally when we reuse them.

They seem like an obvious choice from a marketing side, but make sure you communicate properly to consumers. New aluminium consumes 95% more energy than recycled aluminium. But recycled aluminium loses in flexibility and shine.

Glass also becomes more sustainable when it is reused. But glass can be fragile or even too heavy or potentially dangerous to use in a bathtub.

Innovations keep coming in the market which makes the use of glass or aluminium interesting from a design perspective as well.

02 - REDUCE - PAPER/CARDBOARD PACKAGING

CHANEL

Chanel iconic N°5 perfume bottle is now housed in a moulded paper pulp called Ecoform, an innovation from packaging supplier Knoll Packaging, is a pulp material comprised of sugarcane and bamboo fibers whose design hugs the contours of the famed bottle. The material is recyclable and compostable.

Knoll Ecoform® is a new plant material made from bamboo and sugarcane fibers which are melted together with heat and water and then moulded to the desired shape. One side of the product is smooth the other one is granular giving it a natural feel.

Supplier: Knoll Packaging

AXIOLOGY

Collection of lip-balm with paper and paperboard packaging.

The brand explain that the “balm look small because they have no tubes”.

Packaging: paper around the raisin shaped lip-balm. Boxes handmade from recycled trash by a women’s cooperative in Bali.

CAUDALIE
Caudalie has removed the « plastic » window from their gift box, and used recycled or recyclable content in it’s box.

The inner part is RPET thermoformed to the shape of the bottles. There is no more magnet to close the box but a simple label. Paper and cardboard are from recycled sources. Decor is made with hot stamping.

Considering all the details of the cutting, folding and layer they managed to industrialise the product for an optimum production (done by Verpack in France).

PAI SKINCARE

British certified organic brand PAI skincare, which is now partly owned by the Courtin-Clarins family, has developed a protective cardboard packaging that host the instructions leaflet and all the marketing and regulatory requirements in one single sheet of paperboard.

You can find a video demo on their Instagram

PAPERBOARD

Using recycled or virgin paper board will make a lot of difference in your manufacturing process.

As we saw in the consumer trends chapter, paperboard and recycled paper in the mind of consumers are the best options when it comes to sustainability.

Again, instead of going with the flow, why don’t we try to communicate clearly about the properties of the packaging you have chosen?

Consumers need to be educated. Reducing the amount of packaging is the first decision we should make, and using the right packaging is the second one.

All suppliers are working on LCA (Life Cycle Assessment) for all materials and we will be able to understand the real impact of all our choices in the months/years to come.

We’ll keep you posted!

03 - REDUCE - SOLID COSMETICS

MONO skincare

An entire range of skincare and bodycare products made with refill tablets that transforms into moisturiser, cleanser, etc. with just adding tap water.

What is interesting about this brand is that they made their full range refillable. Tablets are deemed to work for cleanser as well well as face moisturiser, toner or deodorant for instance.

Price range from 47$ for full intense Hydrating Night Serum, and 29$ for one refill tablet for example.

All products are houses in glass packaging with aluminium or wood caps.

Release date - Sept 21

AVEDA

AVEDA which was already a pioneer in sustainable beauty has now reformulated its entire range to vegan formulas, and using 85% of PCR plastics in its packaging.

The brand, born in 1978 from Austrian hairdresser Horst Rechelbacher, has now developed a solid shampoo which is house in a soft cardboard packaging.

And a powder shampoo which is in a “responsible packaging” says the brand; 56 g. Bottle is minimum 25% post-consumer HDPE and up to 75% bioplastic (which is 96% plant-derived and 4% petrochemical). Recyclable.

GARNIER

Garnier Ultimate Blends solid shampoo bar.

Solid shampoos are different in terms of formulations from hair soaps. A solid shampoo bar is surfactant-based with the same formula as a liquid shampoo. Unlike a hair soaps are boiled or cold-processed like regular soaps, using sodium hydroxide or saponified oils.

They tend to be more alkaline than solid shampoos, so you usually need an acid rinse afterwards to smooth the hair follicles.

Garnier sells the shampoo aluminium storage box separately. Users have complained of the stickiness of the bar to the container; once dry the bar can be stuck to the plastic tray.

900.CARE

900.care a French start-up, has released 4 products which are all in solid “formats” in durable and refillable packaging.

Shower gel and hand soap in dissolving tablets, toothpaste in pills, and refillable deodorant.

The packaging is colorful and meant to never be thrown out and kept for a lifetime.

More brands are entering the refill & transformative formula with water like Forgo (Sweden), Merci Handy (France) or Mono Skincare (France).

NEO by nature

On the same concept as 900care, but with an instant formula transformation into shower gel, instead of a few hours wait.

Bottle is made from stainless steel (180g) designed in Paris by Paul-Edouard Carrera and made in France.

Rechargeable capacity of 300 ml.

Formulas are cosmos organic certified, and also deemed 100% rating on Yuka, the french app for products’ ingredients check.

Refill works with putting 5 balls into eternal bottle with 300ml of added water, and then shaked.
Can be accompanied by a magnetic wall mount.

SOLID – the future of beauty?

Here were a few example. They don’t cover all that’s been out on the market, but give you a good example of what to find in the market theses days.

Solid or Waterless formula are starting the invade the market.

It makes sense, from an environmental standpoint, to stop transporting water to places, and let the consumer finish the last step of the formulation with the addition of water.

The only tricky part for extemporaneous formulations, is the finish result. For « rinse-off » product it might be easier as the consistency should be like a gel, and is probably easier the to realise, but for masks, cream of other type of formulation it can be challenging.

Let’s see what the future holds.

04 - REUSE - REFILLABLE PACKAGING

FUR

Refill made with ultra thin transparent PET wall. Refill is hosted in a recycled cardboard sleeve for added security at transportation.

Why it’s interesting

• very thin wall, reduced used of plastic
• fully recyclable
• alternative to doypack, and is mono-layer (not laminated)

Refill from Pinar Beauty Pack “PINPACK”.
Release date - July 22

HERMÈS
After the launch of its refillable lipstick in 2020 “Rouge Hermès”, the luxury brand has released in April 2021, a refillable powder blush called “Rose Hermès” in 8 different shades. The collection also presents two brushes.

The blush is refilled by inserting the needle into the slot in the base to remove the powder pan and replacing it with the new one. The needle is supplied with the refill.

HOURGLASS

After the refillable lipstick launched in 2017, Hourglass has just released a refillable makeup palette.

Palette is made of recycled aluminium and PCR plastic.

The palette comes in 1, 3 or 5 refillable slots. The eye shadow collection comes in 40 different shades.
Release date - Sept 21

DIOR

Dior Sauvage comes with an auto-stop system for refill. Filling stops automatically when the bottle is full.

Recyclable, its simplified aluminium design of the refill allows for a reduction in environmental impact by saving 60% in energy consumption, 35% in water, and 56% in greenhouse gas production (use of a 100 ml Sauvage Eau de Toilette bottle + a 300 ml Sauvage refill, compared to the use of four 100ml Sauvage Eau de Toilette bottles, indicates the brand).

COZIE

French organic beauty Cozie-bio launched in 2017 and offers a refillable/deposit system across its entire product range (skincare and body care). This is a workable solution.

The products are packaged in glass containers, with a deposit scheme of 1.50€ per bottle. When returning to stores, customer will leave the used bottle and pick a new clean one. For the skincare line, the empty glass flacons and caps are cleaned by Cozie ; the pump dispensers are recycled.

Cozie is also able to develop its technology for other brands.

RE by return, refill, repeat scheme

The ReBottle is a returnable bottle that is filled with a chosen product from a refill station. Consumers can buy it, use the contents and return the empty to a Return Station or refill at Refill Station.

Consumers pay for the ReBottle. Return their empty and receive a £2 coupon to use again when paying for the next filled ReBottle.

The program has been launched in the UK at the end of 2021. Refill stations are available in supermarkets (Asda, Coop) and include brands from Unilever (with Radox, Persil, Simple, Alberto Balsam) and PZ Cussons (Carex, original sources) for example.

The indie brands from Beauty Kitchen is leading the project and has developed the logistic to manage the scheme (cleaning of bottles, refill stations maintenance, etc.)

Other brands have worked on their own refill station like The Body Shop, the refillery in the Philippines with Unilever, Alagramo in Chile with Unilever as well, etc.

MYRO

US organic deodorant brand with refillable deo sticks. Myro’s products are packaged in reusable plastic “sleeves” that are dishwasher-safe and can be repurposed afterwards.

Described as offering unisex aluminum salts free deodorants, Myro’s products are available online only, as one-time purchases or as a subscription service.

Consumers pick the plastic case in their favourite colour (seven colours to choose from) and then select from eight scents.

The brand also offers kits of three different scent refills.

Other brands offer refillable deodorant with interesting designs like Fussy, Wild, Proverb skin, etc.

CHANEL
Coco Mademoiselle refill travel perfume container.

The refill works with a twist open of the spray to expose the atomizer. Then the consumer needs to pull up on the atomizer to remove the empty refill canister and replace it with a new one. By a gentle press of the canister into the case and twist the top down to close.

Chanel is moving towards sustainability with the support of their Climate Strategy - In March 2020, CHANEL launched Mission 1.5° — their commitment to tackling climate change in line with the targets of the 2015 Paris Climate Agreement.

ON&DO

Japanese brand. With refillable packaging with a unique oval shape. Beauty box made of cellulose, without glue.

Ultimately simple and unique oval shape. A light matte texture. The life force of the Goto Camellia is packed in the well-shaped iconic OVAL SHAPE, which has no corners and fits comfortably in the hand. A warm white color that evokes the product concept of "warm skin" and "yeast. The cream as well as the foot piece of lotion have a removable refill structure , and the cosmetic box is glueless, responding to global environmental concerns.

Active Ingredient from Goto Camelia. To express this in the anniversary edition (August 2021), “On&To has carefully processed the camellia trees in the Goto Islands, which were scrapped, to create a spatula for face cream as a gift. Since each piece is made by hand, there are individual differences, and each one is unique in the world. They have created a special item that allows consumers to enjoy daily skin care while feeling the warmth of wood.”

Note that full product and refill are sold at the same price (i.e. 8800 JP¥)

FENTY BEAUTY

Fenty Overnight gel-cream comes in a refillable.

Evening vegan routine advertised as “good for a better planet”.

The refillable jar comes with an applicator (in the lid) to use the product without dipping fingers to keep the formula safe from contamination.

In this range, the Hydra Vizor Invisible Moisturizer, and Butta Drop whipped oil body cream also come in refillable packaging.

RITUALS

Rituals, the Amsterdam based “spa” brands has launched some time ago now (2018 already) its body creams in refillable jars with wood cap. The wood cap come with a plastic for screw top.

The brands know for its beauty sets/boxes has transformed them for a more sustainable with insert in moulded paper pulp (instead of plastic insert).

NOBLE PANACEA

The refillable eye infusion pads from Noble Panacea.

Refillable packaging is trickier when it comes to facial skincare, due to the issues of ingredient stability and hygiene. Noble Panacea has crafted an innovative workaround, housing recyclable single-dose sachets made of aluminium within a keepsake box in aluminium inner and cornstarch outer.

Each sachet keeps the formula free from degradation, safeguarding the active ingredients inside. Once you've sachets are empty they can be sent back to the brand who recycle them through a program with TerraCycle.

KJAER WEIS

American organic makeup brand, with Danish founder Kristen Kjaer Weis, offers refillable products across the entire range, including eyeshadows, compact powder, lipstick and mascara.

Kjaer Weis has had a refill system in place ever since the brand was first launched in 2010. The powder tins and lipstick/mascara cases are manufactured from Zamak metal alloy, the outer packaging from cardboard.

They have now launch a new refillable palette housed in a glossy red, leather-feel recyclable and compostable palette. Lightweight and easy to carry, made from textured recyclable paper.

MOB BEAUTY

MOB reusable, refillable and customisable Palettes are made with post-consumer recycled materials for Eye, Blush, Highlighter and Bronzer Refills. Made sustainably made with no mirror, and made with post consumer recycled mono materials.

Recyclable materials like PET and PP resin with at least 50% post-consumer recycled content (reusing material that already exists in the waste streams).

The brand claim to target a reach of 100% PCR in all of their packaging, and they have published a PCR content of all of their products on their website (page: sustainable materials).

The palettes comes in 3 different sizes offering 1 to 12 refillable slots.
other refillable makeup palettes brands: Billion Dollar Beauty

REFILLABLE FRAGRANCES

In line with the DIOR sauvage, more and more fragrances are coming with a refillable option.

Here are two more examples.

The Paco Rabanne fragrance also comes with a digital upgrade. The cap is connected to bring new experiences to consumers. It combines a metallic look and the assembly of an NFC microchip inside the three piece robot head. When putting a smartphone near the heads, consumers can discover Phantom's world, including games and playlists.

JO LOVES Fragrance Paintbrush™

Jo Loves has re-launched a refillable paint brush. As well as adding a new gesture, with the brush, the brush is also sustainably designed as it’s now a refillable system through a refill cartridge. The overall design is also slimmer than previous brush for lower use of materials.

To refill, users need to twist the base of the Fragrance Paintbrush™ anticlockwise to remove the empty fragrance cartridge. Remove the cap from the refill cartridge and simply twist clockwise to secure in place.

Consumers are also recommended to recycle their refill cartridge cap and empty the fragrance cartridge.

RITUALS - SKINCARE RANGE

Glass refill with marble decoration, with inner plastic mould to receive plastic refill.

The inner refillable cup is removable from the jar by pressing the bottom of the cup upwards. Then inserting the new refill cup by slotting it into the jar. Removing the aluminium sleeve of the refill and press the cup into the glass until customer hear a click.

LA PRAIRIE

La Prairie has introduced a new refillable line in May 2021 called « Pure Gold »

It comes in a metal packaging, with refillable glass vials that can be screwed to the main pack with a plastic ring. (image below).

SUSANNE KAUFMANN

Austrian premium spa brand Susanne Kaufmann has introduced refillable glass packaging for some of its bestselling liquid cleansers. For each of the products, a large-size refill plastic pack manufactured from 75% recycled plastic is available.

The production facility is located near the company’s HQ and ingredients are sourced as regionally as possible, claims the brand. The refill packs are manufactured regionally by recycled packaging specialist Alpla.

Products are organic but not certified. The company offers a product range which is sold in some 14 countries internationally.

CHLOÉ by COTY

Coty has release a safe and more sustainable way to display perfume and testers in retail stores.

Perfume is now stored and released through a device placed inside the retail space. No printing or manufacturing of samples to be wasted.

The device delivers a single droplet of liquid directly to an arm or a blotter, offering customers a less invasive testing experience. It also uses data to allow Coty, in partnership with retailers, to optimize the placement of the testers and the customer experience by ensuring beauty advisors are on the spot when needed.

Device created by Everie (french start-up)

INNISFREE refill pouch

Innisfree re-stay comforting body lotion Clean beauty body lotion “that calmly hugs space with rich scent of juniper green woody scent and soft texture that hugs body without leaving stickiness, priced “at S$ 28.00. 480ml.

The "Re-spenser" dispenser has been designed to be easy to refill, made from reclaimed coconut peel (5%), and minerals (25%), which reduces the use of plastic by 30%. The 3-part dispenser can be disassembled and has a wide opening on the body for convenience when refilling and for thorough cleaning. The dispenser shape draws its inspiration from the curves of Korean ceramic. The packaging has a grainy texture “pottery like” can be reemployed as vases and toothbrush flowers claims the brand. Tip : re-stay poach contents (480mL) should be refilled twice in a refill dispenser (350mL).

launch date June 2021

TATA HARPER

Tata Harper has long been using recyclable cardboard packaging and soy-based inks, but her latest innovation is especially exciting.

The natural skincare stalwart has placed her new Water-Lock Moisturiser in refillable packaging, designed to be used over and over while keeping the product sealed in an airtight packaging.

TRESTIQUE

The American make-up brand has developed a fully refillable range. Every product is designed to buy once and refill forever.

The line a makeup pencils, sticks and jumbo pens are dual sided and interchangeable and refillable.

All packaging are made with PIR and PCR plastics which reduces the amount of virgin plastic by more than 90%. The full product line is made with an average of 86% recycled materials.

All products are also carbon neutral, with an carbon offset with carbonfunf.org. Cardboards and consumer mailers are printed with soy-based ink on FSC-certified paper.

Non recyclable parts of the packaging are collectable through the PACT collective scheme with Credo beauty.

XUYONI

Korean brand : organic, vegan, minimalist and genderless.

Based on a philosophy of wellness with skincare.

Skincare line with refillable cartridges in triangular shape. To reduce single-use plastic and the company’s carbon footprint, Xuyoni is offering customers the option to purchase refill cartridges that are sold 20% off the original price.

These refill cartridges are housed in glue-free packaging made from 100% recycled paper to reduce, reuse, and recycle our waste.

05 - RECYCLE

HOW TO RECYCLE YOUR PACKAGING

The key aspect to take into account when thinking of the end of life of your product is the recyclability aspect.

Most beauty packaging have many parts, heavy decorations or small or intricate size that make them difficult to recycle.

Inside our packaging course we cover the recycling topic and you will see that recycling or “sorting” is a tricky job in the beauty world.

TERRACYCLE PROGRAMMES

A few brands are now working on collection schemes with TerraCycle. As you can see from the “recycling” presentation, very few items get recycled.

The best way for the beauty industry to move this forward would be to create collection and recycling streams.

If more brands work together, with the volume and diversity of collected items, it will be an interesting trend to watch unravel in front of our eyes.

06 - RECYCLE - from recycled or recyclable content

REN & the Infinity Recycling loop

After releasing in 2018 a bottle with 20% Ocean and 80% PCR plastic through mechanical recycling. It also then removed the metal spring from its pump, REN is now working on an infinity recycling and have released this year the first 100% PCR plastic recovered through chemical recycling. All PP parts of this pack are certified circular polymer by ISCC. Using this recycling technology to source certified recycled polymer delivers the pack without any compromise on aesthetic or functionality.

Here is an interesting infographic of REN journey through sustainable packaging: https://www.renskincare.com/pages/zero-waste

It’s interesting how in the wording of the REN website there is no mention of « chemical » recycling. The Unilever brand mentions it’s partner SABIC as a global leader in pioneering advanced technologies to facilitate circular reuse of the planet’s natural resources. (Sabic is a petroleum company).

NIVEA

Nivea's naturally good body lotion is a 'rollable' pack made of 50% less plastic compared to its other products, and all the materials used are 100% recyclable.

The pack and the roll-up mechanism as "simple yet intuitive" with great practical functionality for the consumer whilst also thinking about the environmental aspect.

Another innovation from Beiersdorf:

Nivea Naturally Good product range has released in 30 countries a jar made from certified renewable polypropylene (PP). The range will thus be switched from fossil-based virgin plastic to renewable plastic. For this, Beiersdrof is using the certified polypropylene (PP) from SABIC’s Trucicle portfolio, derived from tall oil, a byproduct of the forestry and paper industries.

DM PRO CLIMATE RANGE

German drugstore retailer DM has launched its first environmentally-neutral product range on the German market.

With the environmentally-neutral claim, DM compensates not only the climate-neutral (CO2 footprint) but also other negative effects that the manufacturing process of its product range has on the environment: eutrophication, soil/water acidification, ozone depletion and summer smog.

The products in the range are also formulated with as few (and regionally-sourced) ingredients as possible and with recycled packaging materials.

HENKEL

Henkel started its Social Plastic initiative in cooperation with Plastic Bank in 2017. In 2016 the company began using recycled plastic and over the past years, Henkel has increasingly integrated the so-called social plastic.

Plastic Bank runs collection centers on the seaside in Haiti – Haitians can collect ocean plastic (plastic garbage piled up on the beaches) and “sell” these in return for money, goods or services: social plastic.

In October 2020 Henkel relaunched the Nature Box liquid shampoo range with packaging made from 98% social plastic.

COSNOVA

Cosnova’s one of the biggest colour cosmetics manufacturers in Germany.

They re-launched one of their bestseller mascaras in the Catrice brand, Glam Doll Mascara, with packaging consisting to 80% of PCR plastic (or more precisely, rPET). Cosnova claims that they’re one of the first colour cosmetics manufacturers to tackle mascara packaging with recycled plastic.

This spring the entire Glam Doll mascara range will feature the rPET packaging as part of Cosnona’s new sustainability strategy: the company has said that by 2025 75% of their product packaging will be easily recyclable and will be made from 50% recycled plastic. Plus, they want to reduce product packaging by 30% by 2025.

REN

REN clean skincare has developed samples in full aluminum packaging

To prevent the production of harmful greenhouse gases during the production of these samples and facilitate their recycling, REN Clean Skincare partnered with Tubex to launch samples made of recycled aluminium (95% PCR and 5% PIR), which is infinitely recyclable.

As mentioned in the aluminium report, the benefits of aluminium in terms of recyclability are well known: nearly 75% of the aluminium that has ever been produced is still in use!

Another advantage is that the production of recycled aluminium saves 95% of the energy needed to produce virgin aluminium.

PROVERB

Proverb, the british natural skincare brand has released a compostable sampling sachet containing a liquid formula.

The pouches are composed of layers of paper and biofilm from wood pulp cellulose ensuring they are 100% plastic-free. They are designed to home compost at ambient temperatures back into the water, CO2 and biomass without having any ecotoxicity for the soil.

The new sample pouches are available to consumers that would like to try the skincare collection before they purchase the full sizes, and are fully home compostable in 26 weeks.

LANCÔME

This mascara is encapsulated in a recyclable case thanks to its glass bottle, its plastic cap. It also has a double-sided brush made from plant-based fibres.

Its ultra-soft fiber brush coats all lashes evenly, defines and sculpts volume.

RECYCLED MATERIALS

PCR plastics or material have a long journey ahead of them. We are still in the beginning of the innovations with these materials.

They will require a lot of trials and testing, for manufacturing and compatibility with existing supply chain or formulations, but we should see a lot of great innovations coming up the market in the next few years.

PCR plastics from chemical recycling is still early days, and it’s not clear what is the LCA (Life Cycle Assessment/Analysis) is on them. Likewise for glass or aluminium companies are only now starting to analyse the full impact of their products. We shall see more information on these in the years to come too.

Stay tuned!

07 - RECOVER - COMPOSTABLE OR DEGRADABLE PACKAGING

PLAINE PULVERWUNDER

This is a German indie brand which was the first in Germany to develop a compostable sachet. The brand launched in 2014 but they debuted at Vivaness organic beauty trade show in 2018, where Plaine received a price for this packaging innovation.

The Plaine Pulver Wunder is a 3-in-1 certified organic powder cleanser (body wash, shampoo and shaving cream) packaged in individual fully compostable sachets.

The outer packaging (a cardboard box) is printed with mineral-oil free colours and produced in the Black Forest region. The paper fibres come from renewable forests that grow within a 150 km radius of the production facility.

PLAINE PULVERWUNDER

Plaine Pulverwunder created a compound: the outside of the sachet is made from paper fibres, the inside is coated with a bio polymer that is based on cornstarch. The interior polymer layer protects the powder from outside contamination and prevents moisture from seeping through the sachet paper.

Last year the company also launched a large refill bag which is based on the same material so is also compostable.

Plaine is mostly available online through their own webshop and various organic online stores; there are also a few offline POS across Germany.

THE HANDMADE SOAP

With it ANAM range, the British brand has launched a full version features a luxury glass, refillable bottle and a this refill wash that comes in what the brand describes as “the world’s first compostable refill” designed to biodegrade in six weeks with industrial composting.

This refillable glass bottle is etched in gold and “carefully crafted to adorn your home with true sustainable beauty” expresses the brand.

NADA SIMPLE CARE

German start-up brand which launched a certified organic shower gel/shampoo powder (packaged in (industrially) compostable sachets) that can be mixed with tap water to create a liquid cleanser. They received the Best New Product Award at this year’s Vivaness trade fair.

Nada has a broad online and offline distribution in Germany and Austria and an online presence in UK and the Netherlands.

Nada also sells reusable plastic bottles (made from 100% recycled PET) but you can use any container. Large refill powder pack sizes for packaging-free stores are available.

They offer a zero-waste (or less-packaging) option for customers.

FUTURE STORIES

German startup offering natural-inspired powder cosmetics that can be mixed with water to create liquid products.

For each refill sachet sold, Future Stories will plant a tree. The refill bundles are also available as a subscription.

The Future Stores starter-sets contains one or two refillable bottles made from Tritan plastic and manufactured in Germany, the pump dispenser is steel, and sachets with the various powder formulas.

Products are mostly available online; however, they do ship climate-neutrally.

SULAPAC compostable container

Several organic or Natural brands have selected the Sulapac compostable packaging to house their cream or powders formulas.

Santaverde, their latest launch, the Enzyme Peeling Powder from March 2021, comes in an (industrially) compostable pot manufactured from wood and plant-based glue. The pot, label and label glue is said to be 100% compostable and can be disposed of in the green waste bin.

Until recently, the Sulapac container could only host ’oil-base or powder formulas. The Swedish manufacturer has now released a packaging with the same compostable material that is now compatible with water-base formula. More on that in the suppliers’ innovations at the end of the course.

There are design limitation to make sure this packaging remains compostable: pack colours, labels and inking. (note: the material is industrially compostable, not home compostable).

NAVEEN

Certified organic beauty brand from Taiwan; the factory was the first Ecocert-certified cosmetics factory in Taiwan.

Last year Naveen launched the Sachet-Free Hydrating Mask Treatment – biodegradable cotton fibre mask sheets with the mask serum packaged in a completely recyclable glass flacon. the entire packaging concept is geared towards plastic-free and the mask is compostable.

The Naveen Sachet-Free mask is currently only available in Taiwan; in organic and packaging-free stores.

GARNIER

Garnier recently launched a compostable sheet mask for eyes. The mask material can be thrown into the green/organics waste bin and will decompose by itself. The outer packaging (sachet) goes into the yellow (plastic) bin.

The brand also give specific precise instructions about recycling.

This allow L’Oréal to claim the “household compostable” claim in some countries. This is a smart move to have the home compostability aspect of their product certified – that way they can’t be accused of greenwashing.

PLUS BODY WASH

Plus Body Wash is an American personal startup who has released a shower gel in dissolving sachets. Inside the sachet the shower gel is in a wipe form that become gel under water. The company sales 16 sachets for $16.50.

“The idea of 100% dissolvable packaging—that you hop in the shower with something and it disappears by the time you’re done getting clean—was something that we felt has the potential to get people really excited about making a better choice in the shower,” said Plus co-founder and CEO Cathryn Woodruff to FastCompany.

Those sheets of PLUS come in a bio-based zippered pouch that is backyard or industrially compostable, as is the mailer it’s shipped in.

SUNRISE SESSION

Sunrise Session has just launched in the US market a “detox body wash drop”. The drop dissolves under the shower.

The drops come in a paper board packaging containing 60 drops.

The brand claims to “ bring earth-derived ingredients and green chemistry to the surface, transforming high-performance personal care into concentrated water-seeking drops that dissolve on the spot. No plastic waste.”

Launch date: first drop in August 2018, rebranded, re-launched August 2021

SOAPBOTTLE

A 100% degradable packaging under water. A startup founded by a Berlin based designer, Jonna Breitenhuber, who has released a kickstarter campaign to get fundings. Following the success of the launch, the company is now based in Amsterdam and is now proceeding with product development to put the actual product on the market.

SOAPBOTTLE is a packaging for personal care and hygiene products made from soap. Once the liquid content is finished, the empty container can be used as hand soap and “washes away” over time. The soap is made from natural and biodegradable ingredients; Waste can be completely avoided.

COMPOSTABLE

Compostable is at early exploration stage. Chances are that in the next few months or years, we will see great innovations.

Compostable would work easier for rinse-off products, but with the Sulapac innovation for cream oil-base and now water-base, it sure is paving the way for interesting way to package beauty.

The only down side of compostable packaging will be the communications around it. If it’s not home compostable, meaning degraded naturally in your garden in a few weeks, it will need to be industrially composted, and it might be tricky to help the consumer remember in which waste bin to put it. They will potentially forget after 3 to 6 months usage.

If you use compostable packaging make sure your comms are very CLEAR.

08 - RECOVER - RENEWABLE / RAW MATERIALS PACKAGING

SPORTSTICK

German start-up brand launched this year. Their first and only product so far is an organic sun protection stick. The SPF is mineral-based (titanium and zinc oxide).

The product was developed especially for use outdoors – water sports, hiking, surfing so the completely compostable packaging is made from cork, so it floats when you’re submerged.

The cork is sourced from Portugal, the outer packaging is made from grass paper that is regionally made in Germany.

PAPR

PAPR was founded in Los Angeles, California. All of our products are formulated, tested and made in the USA.

Their packaging works as simple as a conventional deodorant push up stick and it is biodegradable.

It is made from 99.98% FSC certified, responsibly sourced paper. The remaining 0.02% is a super thin PLA membrane. It is made from cornstarch.

Many other brands are offering paper sticks for solid formulas like Lamazuna, Ben&Anna, Old Spice (Unilever), Kutis, Coconut matter, etc.

ESTAMPE COSMETICS

French makeup brand launched in early 2021 with a unisex gender-free slant and a refillable product concept.

The product range is packaged in biodegradable cork containers. The cork is sourced in Europe, the tins and pans are made from aluminum and the outer packaging from FSC-certified paper.

Consumer can purchase refill pans and slot them into the cork containers. Refills comes in aluminium.

SOLID BEAUTY

• EDOBIO
  Japanese Skincare and Repair Cosmetics. Soap from a culture of lactic acid bacteria and yeast together to produce the brand original lactic acid bacteria “BiProGE®”　that was used in this alkaline soap which is suitable for both the face and body.
  Soap comes in a wooden box wrapped with cardboard. Soap is also delivered with a foaming net.
• UMAÏ
  French shampoo brand that hosts the solid bar in a cork packaging.
  The cork packaging is shape to the shampoo bar shape, ,and is 100% biodegradable since it only contains cork and no glue or any other additives.

PONYHUTCHEN

Swiss organic niche beauty brand - Ponyhütchen sells face care, body care and deodorants.

Ponyhütchen uses sugarcane-based bioplastic in most of its packaging.

One of their hero products are the deodorant creams in jars. After the tins are empty, they can be returned to the store or by post for reuse; hand in three tins and get a refill for free.

The brand’s products are mostly available online.

They have a German flagship store in Berlin which was opened in 2016.

HANDS ON VEGGIES

Austrian organic bath and body care brand launched in 2018.

Packaging used is green PE, sugarcane-based bioplastic.

The sugar cane used in the production of the green PE is a waste product from the German sugar industry.

However, this material is not that accessible to smaller brands (i.e., independently owned niche brands).

GARDEN BEAUTY

French organic beauty brand from Auriac in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, launched in 2015; offers face and body care based on fruit and vegetable ingredients.

The entire range is packaged in glass jars or tubes that are topped by wooden lids. All the wooden elements are manufactured from wood that is harvested from PEFC-certified forests in France (PEFC=Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification Schemes).

The fibres used in the paper labels also come from sustainable sources; printed with chemical-free vegetable dyes. Glass jars and wooden lids are all produced in France.

LOEWE

Loewe Perfumes has developed a wooden case for the portable versions of their fragrances. Over 20 fragrances by Loewe are now available in easily portable 15 ml vials, dubbed Fragrances To Go.

The wooden case is one of the recent applications of Woork for prestige perfumes (from Pujalosos - Spain). Designed to be compostable, the Woork caps combine wood with a cork insert and are free from plastic and glue.

Made of ash wood sourced from sustainably managed forest, Loewe’s Fragrances To Go case is decorated with the laser engraved brand’s logo and features a Woork cap, made of ash and organic cork inners.

Supplier: Pujolasos

SCENTBIRD

Scentbird has launch a new line “Sanctuary” and has developed an outer packaging from mycelium (mushroom).

Home-compostable vac forms that are made of dehydrated mycelium and hemp. FSC-certified sleeves printed with organic, vegetable-based inks are fitted over the vac forms, which are nestled in shipper boxes (also FSC-certified) containing Green Cell Foam, a protective foam made from US-grown corn that can be at-home composted or simply dissolved in water.
Supplier: Paradise Packaging Co.

BIOBASED MATERIALS

Again, for bio-based materials the communications on recyclability or degradation will need to be clear to insure a safe end of life of the product.

It will take time, trials, tests and failures, but it’s paramount to be more transparent and educational in our marketing.

Biobased materials are not all compostable or biodegradable. Most will degrade but in different ways.

Make sure your packaging ends its life and doesn’t have contamination into the process.

09 - EASY / ACCESSIBLE BEAUTY

OLAY

OLAY North America has developed a limited-edition easy to open lid prototype developed "with and for" people with disabilities and is set to share the design with the beauty industry.

The lid will also be incorporated into the product design of OLAY’s "most popular products" the Regenerist Micro-Sculpting Cream, Vitamin C + Peptide 24 Face Moisturizer, Retinol 24 Face Moisturizer and Collagen Peptide 24 Face Moisturizer.

To create the design, OLAY met with consumers with a wide range of conditions, from dexterity issues and limb differences, to chronic issues causing joint pain and vision impairments. The team also met with external experts and incorporated personal experiences from team members into the new product design.

DEGREE / SURE

The Degree brand, also known as sure, worked on an Inclusive design to offer a deodorant packaging that includes an easy-grip shape and a larger roll-on applicator that can cover more surface area in one swipe.

The cap has a magnetic closure that allows it to be taken off and put on more easily by users with limited grip or visual impairment. The hooked lid also allows the deodorant to be hung to enable one-handed usage and the label features instructions in braille.

The Degree Inclusive prototype is currently being beta tested by over 200 participants who are living with disabilities.
Product developed in collaboration with Design studio Sour and inclusive creative agency Wunderman Thomson,.

CRETE

Crete, America brand has released a wand/pen for nail polish application. Leaves a matt finish. Called nail paint. Comes in line with the new trend of genderless nail polish that is attracten men in the segment, like Harry Styles with his brand Pleasing.

This wand offers an easy application, with the click of the top to release brush and paint, after unscrewing the lid.

KOHL KREATIVES

Khol Kreatvies do not have a new innovation however have a very interesting design that is worth knowing …

These face brushes are designed to support people who may experience motor disabilities. Brushes are flexible and easy to grip.The square handle brushes (not round) make holding applicators easier for users who may experience motor disabilities or visual impairments

VICTORIALAND

The American skincare brand has release The CyR.U.S.™ System Of Raised Universal Symbols, in order to display specific signs on skincare products.

The founder explains that only 10% of visual impaired people read braille, and she hope that the symbol would become an industry standard.

Here on the left are the symbols with their meanings.

10 - INTERESTING CLAIMS

BIBY BEAUTY

BIBY Beauty present honest and useful information about their products including how to recycle them*. For example with their Mega Mist facial toner spray:

“ How can I RECYCLE?

Carton, glass bottle and atomizer cap are 100% recyclable so can be disposed of in your domestic recycling. Atomisers (the spritzy bit) are a little tricky, and a 100% recyclable option doesn't exist yet. It can be recycled if returned to TerraCycle, but it's much easier for us to manage if you ReBYBI it back to us.

1) Separate atomizer and glass bottle

2) Rinse out all of the contents of the glass bottle and atomizer cap and put into recycling bin

3) TerraCycle the atomizer or ReBYBI the full empty product packaging back to us “.

Another example from BiBy Beauty* on their Acid Gold face mask selling page a drop down list including the sustainability of the product and how to recycle the product is included! This is interesting giving the consumer transparent information which is useful to them and increases their sustainability knowledge about the product.

UP CIRCLE BEAUTY

UpCircle are also offering transparency and education to their consumers. They are clearly explaining on their website how to recycle products, ingredients of products and prompting upcycling materials.

“ How our packaging should be recycled*

• Aluminum Lids - All UpCircle aluminum lids can go straight into your normal recycling!
• Pipette / Dropper - Check local municipality or use Terracycle. We also offer aluminium cap refill options – use dropdown menu on product page.
• Cardboard Outers - All UpCircle outer cardboard boxes can go straight into your normal recycling!
• Glass - All glass bottles and jars can go straight into your normal recycling. Give them a quick rinse if possible.”

GALLINÉE

Gallinée launched at the very end of 2021 an “anti-waste” operation to sell products that were coming to their end of life within 8 to 6 months and were unworthy of sales, and would have been wasted otherwise.

For safety reason, products that are near the 6 months use-by date, are meant to be destroyed as they are unfit to consume.

Gallinée has then released an anti-waste campaign to sell products at a reduced price (70% off) and avoid the destruction and wastage if the 6-months end-of-life date was reached.
“By giving you the opportunity to purchase Gallinée products closer to the expiration date, but still perfectly safe to use for many months, at a very, very reduced price. This way, no product gets discarded when it is still perfectly good to use.”

PIERRE FABRE

In 2021, the group Pierre Fabre (Avène, Klorane, Ducray, A-Derma, René Furterer) Green Impact Index and assessed by AFNOR in France (the French national organization for standardization), which gives guidelines on environmental impacts of products.

“The Green Impact Index summarizes the impacts of a cosmetic or family health care product on society and the environment through a simple score: A, B, C or D. In their jargon, specialists in this area talk about the eco-social design of products. The Green Impact Index does not therefore assess a product’s performance or its effects on health. It’s about the degree to which it respects nature and society as a whole. Here at Pierre Fabre, we consider that a product can reasonably claim to be eco-socially designed if it has a B score, though the ultimate objective is to achieve an A rating.”

11 - CONCLUSION