Latest Sustainable Beauty Formulations Innovations
Photo by SIMON LEE / Unsplash

Latest Sustainable Beauty Formulations Innovations

Marie Dehlinger

This report reveals the innovations in formulation and ingredients that have genuine sustainability credentials, that have been released over the course of 2023. From upcycling ingredients, upgraded functional ingredient, polymer switch to green alternative, biotechnology to waterless beauty. Ingredients suppliers and solutions providers are changing the face of beauty.

  • Upcycling

Upcycling is a fundamental trend in beauty. It has always been practised in our industry with recycled waste from the food industry, for instance.

  • Functional Ingredients

Functional ingredients, including conditioning agents, moisturizing agents, surfactants, colourants, thickeners, and fragrance ingredients, are being revamped, with alternative sourcing from Biotech instead of petrochemistry, for example.

  • Waterless Beauty

Waterless beauty requires ingredients compatible with the formulation. Some formulations may actually use ingredients or compounds only found in a liquid form (Fragrance, for instance), while ingredients suppliers are developing ingredients in a powder or dry format for direct formulation in a waterless mix.

  • Polymer Switch

This trend follows the market demand for a reduced dependency on petrochemistry and the development of alternative sourcing using fermentation or other green chemistry principles to improve the environmental footprint.

  • BioTechnologies

Whether with Green Biotech (from plants), White Biotech (mushrooms, micro-organisms) or Blue Biotech (from the Ocean), solutions are invading the market with increased efficacy of ingredients and a greener impact.


We will present the following report in three categories:

  • Innovative Ingredients
  • New Formulations
  • Sustainable processes


Innovative Ingredients

Linodermine

About
Extracted from french organic linseed, Linodermine delivers an instant glow and long term anti-aging benefits. Rich in natural sugars (xylose and rhamnose), this multifunctional active stimulates crucial biological markers : collagen, elastin, decorin, hyaluronic acid synthesis. Compatible with gels and emulsion formulations. 

Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
The patented eco-designed extraction process (UltraSevum™) which combines ultrasonics and phytosolvents. Tree sap is used as an extraction fluid to replace organic solvents, offering a more natural (and active) alternative. 

Supplier:  Arboretum Ingredients / IMDC
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: October 2023


REGETASTE

About
Did you know that your skin has bitter taste receptors? More accurately, keratinocytes has. And that’s how this active ingredient can target senescent keratinocytes to boost cell regeneration and reverse epidermal senescence. For a smoother, more radiant skin and an enhanced barrier function. 

Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
This organic certified extract is obtained by upcycling of apple pomace from the cider production in Brittany. A specific bittersweet species, Marie Menard, grown in an agricultural cooperative, was selected. 

Supplier:  CODIF
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: September 2023


LEGUMINOUS BASED ALCOHOL

About
The world's first pulse neutral alcohol, made from peas, for Cosmetics & Pharma. Polysaccharide by products of leguminous based protein production are processed thanks to a low carbon fermentation to obtain a neutral alcohol. An actionnable solution to substantially improve the sustainability profile of alcohol based products. 

Why it’s interesting / sustainable:
Intact patented technology leverages the natural nitrogen fixing properties of pulses to introduce a disruptive regenerative, high quality neutral alcohol. A positive impact on biodiversity,  carbon emissions, chemical fertilizer reduction, water use, soil regeneration.

Supplier:  Intact Regenerative
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: December 2024


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