Latest Sustainable Beauty Formulations Innovations
This report reveals the innovations in formulation and ingredients that have genuine sustainability credentials, that have been released over the course of 2023. From upcycling ingredients, upgraded functional ingredient, polymer switch to green alternative, biotechnology to waterless beauty. Ingredients suppliers and solutions providers are changing the face of beauty.
The main trends that we've seen in the year 2023
- Upcycling
Upcycling is a fundamental trend in beauty. It has always been practised in our industry with recycled waste from the food industry, for instance.
- Functional Ingredients
Functional ingredients, including conditioning agents, moisturizing agents, surfactants, colourants, thickeners, and fragrance ingredients, are being revamped, with alternative sourcing from Biotech instead of petrochemistry, for example.
- Waterless Beauty
Waterless beauty requires ingredients compatible with the formulation. Some formulations may actually use ingredients or compounds only found in a liquid form (Fragrance, for instance), while ingredients suppliers are developing ingredients in a powder or dry format for direct formulation in a waterless mix.
- Polymer Switch
This trend follows the market demand for a reduced dependency on petrochemistry and the development of alternative sourcing using fermentation or other green chemistry principles to improve the environmental footprint.
- BioTechnologies
Whether with Green Biotech (from plants), White Biotech (mushrooms, micro-organisms) or Blue Biotech (from the Ocean), solutions are invading the market with increased efficacy of ingredients and a greener impact.
We will present the following report in three categories:
- Innovative Ingredients
- New Formulations
- Sustainable processes
Innovative Ingredients
Linodermine
About
Extracted from french organic linseed, Linodermine delivers an instant glow and long term anti-aging benefits. Rich in natural sugars (xylose and rhamnose), this multifunctional active stimulates crucial biological markers : collagen, elastin, decorin, hyaluronic acid synthesis. Compatible with gels and emulsion formulations.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
The patented eco-designed extraction process (UltraSevum™) which combines ultrasonics and phytosolvents. Tree sap is used as an extraction fluid to replace organic solvents, offering a more natural (and active) alternative.
Supplier: Arboretum Ingredients / IMDC
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: October 2023
REGETASTE
About
Did you know that your skin has bitter taste receptors? More accurately, keratinocytes has. And that’s how this active ingredient can target senescent keratinocytes to boost cell regeneration and reverse epidermal senescence. For a smoother, more radiant skin and an enhanced barrier function.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
This organic certified extract is obtained by upcycling of apple pomace from the cider production in Brittany. A specific bittersweet species, Marie Menard, grown in an agricultural cooperative, was selected.
Supplier: CODIF
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: September 2023
LEGUMINOUS BASED ALCOHOL
About
The world's first pulse neutral alcohol, made from peas, for Cosmetics & Pharma. Polysaccharide by products of leguminous based protein production are processed thanks to a low carbon fermentation to obtain a neutral alcohol. An actionnable solution to substantially improve the sustainability profile of alcohol based products.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable:
Intact patented technology leverages the natural nitrogen fixing properties of pulses to introduce a disruptive regenerative, high quality neutral alcohol. A positive impact on biodiversity, carbon emissions, chemical fertilizer reduction, water use, soil regeneration.
Supplier: Intact Regenerative
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: December 2024
CREADRY
About
An emollient microspheres powder, designed for powder forms & water-free formulations. This vegetal based white powder made from microspheres of wax (olive and/or castor wax) offers emollient properties for the skin, easy formulation (mixing at room temperature) and Cosmos & Vegan compliance. The microspheres can be customized (microencapsulation), and create a unique sensoriality.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Europe/France sourced, produced in France, the microspheres powder is obtained by a physical process with a patented encapsulation technology (no chemical reaction needed). 100% biodegradable, low energy manufacturing & formulation.
Supplier: Creathes Manufacturing
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: March 2023
RetiLife™
About
The first natural origin retinol. Gold standard of anti-aging actives, retinol is usually synthetic. This 100% natural origin retinol is obtained by biotechnology. The retinol molecule is identical to its synthetic counterpart, allowing to combine demonstrated anti-aging benefits, a better bioavailability and the natural origin desired by consumers.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Vegetal sugars are fermented by microorganisms in a natural carrier (sunflower oil) to get pure retinol, protected by adding natural antioxidants. It avoids the use of synthetic ingrédients (BHT, polysorbate) for a 100% natural origin raw material. Free from fossil based carbon.
Supplier: Givaudan Active Beauty
Location: Switzerland, Europe
Release Date: March 2023
SilSense™ Bio 5 - emollient
About
This fast-spreading volatile emollient provides the same performance and sensory feel as cyclopentasiloxane (D5) volatile silicon in leave-on applications, specifically for skin care, hair care, sun care and makeup formulations. It leaves a lightweight and non greasy soft feel to the hair, scalp and skin.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
SilSense™ Bio 5 is a biodegradable and sustainable alternative to cyclopentasiloxane (D5), which is restricted in the EU for its ecotoxicity. Obtained by bio-alkane chemistry, it is sourced from a 100% vegetal oil. COSMOS approved and vegan.
Supplier: Lubrizol Beauty
Location: United States of America
Release Date: January 2023
ALGAFILLER
About
Extracted from the seaweed Codium tomentosum, Algafiller fights against signs of aging by targeting wrinkles, loss of firmness and loss of subcutaneous fat that come with age (lipoatrophy). In vitro & in vivo testing showed its lipoflling effect, redensification of the dermis, an increase in the skin’s firmness and a smoothing of wrinkles.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Agrimer’s patented biorefinery technology allows an optimal use of all the seaweed, a self regenerating species harvested on the Brittany coast. This green chemistry based process leads to the splitting of the polysaccharides for a better bioavailability.
Supplier: AGRIMER
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: February 2023
SAGACIOUS™
About
An anti-sagging biomimetic ingredient, scientifically designed, sourced and produced in France. Inspired by plant research in space, it is an extract of organic thongweed, a seaweed rich in glycolipids, molecules that reinforce skin firmness. It innovatively targets anti-sagging with an action on the dermo-hypodermal junction.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
The patented eco-designed extraction process (“Coeur d’algue”) reduces the number of steps needed to obtain molecules of interest from algae. Less extraction steps produce less waste and consume less energy and time.
Supplier: SEPPIC
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: June 2023
ISONATURE®
About
The first renewable Isohexadecane 100% natural derived (ISO 16 128). Isohexadecane is a branched alkane with a medium volatility property which confers a dry and silky finish on the skin. It is mainly used in skin care, make-up remover, color cosmetics and sun care.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Produced with biosourced isobutene, this biobased alkane is an alternative to synthetic isohexadecane and help increase the naturality of a formula.
Supplier: GLOBAL BIOENERGIES
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: March 2023
AminoSensyl™ Ultra MB
About
AminoSensyl™ Ultra MB is an optimized ratio of the cationic amino lipid Brassicyl Valinate Esylate and Cetearyl Alcohol. The biobased conditioning system provides deep moisturization and strengthening across multiple hair types and hair states. It provides high performance sensory benefits that previously were only possible with quaternary ammonium conditioning agents (quats).
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Designed according to green chemistry principles, AminoSensyl™ Ultra MB is an eco-friendly alternative to quats. Derived from responsibly sourced, renewable natural feedstocks, it is readily biodegradable and safe for aquatic environments. Natural Origin Index of 1.0.
Supplier: INOLEX
Location: United States of America
Release Date: March 2023
AC OleaShield
About
OleaShield activates the autophagy detoxification process within the cells to maintain skin homeostasis and counteracts the age-related decline in skin cell function. The combination of a base material rich in phytochemicals and biofermentation produce a powerful ingredient which helps reduce wrinkles and restore skin elasticity by acting on cellular damages and by reduction of oxidative stress.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Olive vegetation water, a left over from olive exploitation that can be polluting, is upcycled by biofermentation with Lactobacillus acidophilus. The fermentation boosts the efficacy of polyphenols and the antioxidant activity of the extract.
Supplier: ACTIVE CONCEPTS
Location: United States of America
Release Date: April 2023
ALGAKTIV COLLAGE
About
A vegan peptides & Spermidin firming complex to restructure and immediately nourish the skin from within. It targets collagen synthesis in the skin to restore its architecture. In vitro tests demonstrate an increase of native collagen production in the dermis up to 27.96% with Collage 0.5% and 40.37% with Collage 1%. It also delivers hydration benefits with a significant boost of 34% at 0.5%.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
In Iceland, Hematococcus pluvialis is grown in closed-photobioreactors using 100% geothermal energy to produce sustainable & natural astaxanthin. The water-soluble microalgae waste is transformed using blue biotechnology to purify a blend of vegan collagen amino acids and Spermidine.
Supplier: ALGAKTIV
Location: Spain, Europe
Release Date: September 2023
SEA BALANCE 2000
About
SeaBalance 2000 is the first seaweed-based O/W cosmetic emulsifier, applicable in a wide range of eco-friendly formulations with a silicone-like skin feel. It performs in cold or hot process skincare applications and emulsifies all types of oil without the need of co-emulsifiers.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Sargassum accumulation threatens aquatic plants and animals and impacts tourism. Rotting beached Sargassum release methane, a powerful greenhouse gas. Upcycling Sargassum to produce an emulsifier (low impact extraction) helps reducing their impact on the environment.
Supplier: CARBONWAVE
Location: United States of America
Release Date: April 2022
AKYPO SUGAR LM 42
About
This anionic surfactant (INCI: Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate, Lauryl Glucoside) offers efficient cleansing, excellent lathering, and extremely mild properties to hair, skin, and eyes, making it ideal to formulate shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers and baby care products.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
This cold processable surfactant exhibits a 96% of RCI and full biodegradable profile, and is also free of 1,4-Dioxane. COSMOS approved.
Supplier: KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE
Location: Spain, Europe
Release Date: x
COSMEDIA® HP STARCH
About
Cosmedia® HP Starch is an effective thickening agent with texturizing properties designed for emulsion preparations and different surfactant systems. Due to its nonionic nature, it offers multifunctional benefits in diverse applications including hair conditioners, styling and sun care formulations as well. Hot and cold process compatible.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
This readily biodegradable (according to OECD 301D criteria) biopolymer is derived from natural feedstocks. It is locally sourced and produced only in Europe. Preservative free, it’s an alternative to synthetic polymers.
Supplier: BASF
Location: Germany, Europe
Release Date: March 2023
TINOMAX™ CC
About
Tinomax™ CC is ideally suited for optimizing sunscreen formulations. In addition, it offers sensory benefits through homogeneous particle shaping. This ingredient lengthens UV protection with SPF and UVA improvement, and has a positive effect on reducing the stickiness and greasiness of sun care formulations.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Derived from natural source and preservative free, it increases both naturality and protection of the sunscreen formula.
Supplier: BASF
Location: Germany, Europe
Release Date: March 2023
KERASYLIUM™
About
This botanical extract is a concentrated micro-complex of peptides that can penetrate damaged hair fibers, stabilize & repair keratin bonds, and protect the hair from day-to-day aggressors to hair health and beauty. Naturally titrated in antioxidants such as polyphenols, it protects the hair and can prevent hair color fading after dual exposure to UV radiation combined with pollution conditions.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Kerasylium™ provides a plant-based alternative to animal based keratin from upcycled milk thistle seed cake, a by-product of milk thistle oil production. The milk thistle used is grown in France for oil production and is based on a traceable and sustainable supply chain.
Supplier: BASF
Location: Germany, Europe
Release Date: March 2023
HOLOBIOSYS®
About
A next-gen active, utilizing an innovative metaproteomic study, taking it a step further by studying the holobiont. By focusing on the host/microbiota interactions, Holobiosys® treats the skin as a whole, allowing a deep hydration-restructuring action. It alleviates dry and dehydrated skin via a boost of hyaluronic acid and skin lipids synthesis.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Holobiosys® is obtained by an upcycled process: a wild yellow gentian extract (sustainably & locally harvested in France) is enhanced by fermentation with a rare and resistant bacteria from aerobiome.
Supplier: GREENTECH
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: March 2023
EPIONINE® Bio
About
EPIONINE® Bio will protect the skin from IN & OUT stress by acting on the skin-brain axis. By soothing skin & mind, it offers an unique opportunity to develop formulations that will act on consumers' mood for a holistic approach to beauty. EPIONINE® Bio is an oily active ingredient, concentrate of unsaponifiables, extracted from the seeds of Camellia oleifera (Camelia Tea Oil) native to China.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Sustainably sourced from China, it is obtained by molecular distillation, a physical process that does not require any solvent.
Supplier: LABORATOIRE EXPANSCIENCE
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: March 2023
SPRUCESUGAR™
About
SpruceSugar™ is a 100% natural hemicellulose extract. It has the potential to increase the antioxidant capacity of the product it is used in, and in personal care products such as shampoo, it can help the user’s hair to cope with oxidative stress, for example, from hair dyeing.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Obtained from sustainable spruce sawmilling side streams, SpruceSugar™ is an innovative and sustainable ingredient, substituting analogue chemicals and polysaccharides.
Supplier: MONTINUTRA
Location: Finland, Europe
Release Date: April 2023
LIFTEOL™
About
LIFTEOL™ is rich in lupeol and lupenone, powerful bioavailable triterpenes that stimulate the production of collagen fibers, inhibit the action of degrading enzymes on the cellular matrix, and inhibit the levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines. It restores elasticity and firmness in the skin.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Manufactured from revaluation of by-products from the canadian forestry industry, this active is produced following the principles of green chemistry, for a reduced carbon footprint.
Supplier: TERLYS
Location: Quebec, Canada
Release Date: October 2023
IMPACTIC ESSENCE
About
This active is a potent multifunctional plant extract. Impatic Essence has anti-aging properties : it improves the skin elasticity, skin firmness and reduces the depth and width of wrinkles. It provides inhibition of collagenase and elastase, antioxidant effect, hydrating and anti-inflammatory properties, discolorations brightening. Available in liquid and dry form.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Impact Essence is obtained by an innovative ultrasound assisted extraction. The plant (Impatiens glandulifera) is harvested in Poland, where it is considered as an invasive species.
Supplier: PBC LABS
Location: Poland, Europe
Release Date: June 2023
ESTOGEL® MAX
About
EstoGel® Max is a high-performance oil gelling agent derived from nature. It enables the formulation of oil-structured gels while maintaining a certain flexibility to optimize their application to the skin. Its easy processing at 85°C and the transparency of the resulting products make this ingredient ideal for the formulation of transparent sticks.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Combination of two high performance natural gelling polymers, EstoGel® Max is a natural oil rheological modifier (NOI = 0.946).
Supplier: POLYMEREXPERT
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: March 2023
COL-4-FRAG REMASTERED™
About
Col-4-Frag remastered™ is a biomimetic to human collagen IV fragment that acts on the collagen IV net by intervening in its synthesis & anchoring thanks to perlecan & collagen type VII. This helps to form more interdigitations in the DEJ (Dermo-Epidermal Junction), promoting the nourishment and tightness of dermis and epidermis. It promotes a smooth and flawless neck and décolleté with less wrinkles and dark spots.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Col-4-Frag remastered™ is produced by Wild plants as biofactories through vertical farming.
Supplier: LIPOTRUE
Location: Spain, Europe
Release Date: November 2023
POLYCARE® HEAT THERAPY
About
Polycare® Heat Therapy is a new functional active ingredient that protects hair from thermal damage due to repeated use of hair styling appliances operating at very high temperatures. Polycare® Heat Therapy protects by forming a natural shield, an invisible and imperceptible barrier on the hair surface that helps maintain the physical and sensory qualities of the hair.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Polycare® Heat Therapy is ethically sourced from renewable sources through the company’s Sustainable Guar Initiative program in India and serves as a role model of sustainable development in line with the Solvay One Planet roadmap. Bio-based and non ecotoxic.
Supplier: SOLVAY
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: March 2023
REJUVENAD™
About
RejuveNAD™ is a new natural active ingredient which stimulates the endogenous regeneration of NAD+ by activating the enzyme NAMPT. Clinical studies show that this active can counteract at least 5 hallmarks of aging in the skin simultaneously: mitochondrial dysfunction, cellular senescence, loss of proteostasis, epigenetic alteration and genomic instability making the skin look 8 years younger in just 42 days.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
The sunflower sprouts used for the production of RejuveNAD™ are organically cultivated indoors without soil in a carefully controlled and sustainable process (indoor farming). COSMOS approved.
Supplier: MIBELLE BIOCHEMISTRY
Location: Switzerland
Release Date: November 2023
ALTHEOSTEM™
About
Altheostem™ selectively triggers senolysis and elimination of senescent fibroblasts in aging skin for a tailored biological action that leads to a healthier and youthful skin in vivo. The apparent age of volunteers will decrease over 3 years (AI-proved efficacy).
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Altheostem™ is produced from stem cells obtained from the lab grown Althaea rosea petal. A 100% traceable, eco-responsible biotechnological process.
Supplier: PROVITAL
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: April 2023
DENSINARIA™
About
Hair volume and strengthening active ingredient, enriched with arginine, Densinaria™ has a restorative action from cortex to cuticle similar to keratin, thanks to an increased quantity of reconstructive biomolecules. It prevents hair fragility and split ends in key moments in life such as post-partum period, menopause, periods of stress, anxiety or in cases of hair damage through intensive brushing, hair colour.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Densinaria™ is extracted from seaweed (Palmaria palmata) using an enzyme-assisted extraction process which optimizes yield while minimizing environmental impact. 100% of natural origin (ISO 16128).
Supplier: PROVITAL
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: October 2023
BERGAMULS ET2
About
BergaMuls ET2 uses a dual mode of action which makes it an ideal o/w emulsifier and stabilizer. It is not esterified, but cold-processible, and therefore also less likely to create soaping effects. It allows the formulation of products ranging from light, translucent and refreshing cream-gels to soothing lotions and compact creams.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
BergaMuls ET 2 is plant-based, sourced from oat, wood and guar gum upcycled from food by-products that meets a zero waste policy, circularity and sustainable approaches. Water free.
Supplier: BERG+SCHMIDT
Location: Germany, Europe
Release Date: October 2023
PHYTESSENCE™ FRENCH ROSE EC
About
Phytessence™ French Rose EC is extracted from Rosa gallica, a french variety of rose. It has proven moisturising and protecting properties, and visually improves the quality of the skin. It offers nourishing, calming, soothing, astringent, toning and healing properties. It helps in maintaining skin hydration and strengthening the skin barrier.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Phytessence™ French Rose EC is obtained by Eco-sound™ technology, ultrasound extraction of roses from French organic farming. Mindful about respecting the environment and its biodiversity, rose growers guarantee traditional know-how and meticulous manual harvesting.
Supplier: CRODAROM
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: October 2023
SEPIBLISS™ FEEL
About
Sepibliss™ Feel is a patented active ingredient extracted from coriander seeds sourced in France. Its high percentage of petroselinic acid, a fatty acid known for its soothing properties, makes it an ingredient with unique properties. Sepibliss™ Feel provides a nourishing, soothing and comforting effect and works on the skin and well-being for a holistic beauty experience.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Sepibliss™ Feel is a natural ingredient, a 100% virgin coriander seed oil, obtained from eco-extraction (solvent free). Sourced and produced in the South-West of France. Coriander is a companion plant (it protects others plants) and quite undemanding to cultivate.
Supplier: SEPPIC
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: May 2023
SENEVISIUM®
About
SENEVISIUM® is an anti-senescence active ingredient derived from Ginkgo biloba. By circumventing the deleterious immunoevasion strategies put in place by senescent fibroblasts with age, it reactivates their natural elimination by the immune system and preserves matrix synthesis and epidermal renewal. The skin thus recovers its density and elasticity for an anti-wrinkle and radiance-boosting action.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Senevisum’s is extracted from leaves of Ginkgo Biloba cultivated in two French farms, certified for their organic and biodiversity-friendly processes. It complies with biodiversity regulations. Natural origin content of 98.8% (ISO 16128).
Supplier: SILAB
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: February 2023
BOTANIBUTTER™
About
Derived from botanical sources of palm, mustard and rapeseed, BotaniButter™ provides a rich texture in formulations from creams to light lotions, with a smooth application. The unique melting point of BotaniButter™, just above skin temperature, allows it to melt immediately after application, resulting in a soft skin with a pleasant film, without leaving a waxy dry feel on the skin.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
BotaniButter™ is a natural alternative to some silicone waxes that provide comparable sensory and textural attributes, with the additional benefits of increased skin hydration. 100% Derived Natural (according to ISO 160128), inherently biodegradable and RSPO certified.
Supplier: CARGILL
Location: United States of America
Release Date: October 2023
ARISTOFLEX® ECO T
About
Aristoflex® Eco T is a patented rheology modifier made from Tara Gum and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), a combination that allows for strong thickening performance, and providing outstanding rheology, oil & particle stabilization and excellent skin feel.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Made from Tara Gum and AMPS, Aristoflex Eco T is biodegradable and based on renewable sources (Renewable Carbon Index: 71 %). This biopolymers is an alternative to less or not biodegradable synthetic polymers.
Supplier: CLARIANT
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: January 2023
REGENIGHT™
About
Tested with a scientifically proven biometric system in a real-life context, Regenight™ helps improve sleep quality while boosting the expression of melatonin pathway genes and antioxidant capacity to improve the skin regeneration process and reduce oxidative stress.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Regenight™ is an oil-soluble upcycled by-product fraction from Australian Tea tree oil distillation (from another LMC active) and standardized in sesquiterpenes. 100% natural origin, COSMOS approved.
Supplier: LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS
Location: Quebec, Canada
Release Date: March 2023
IMMUNIGHT™
About
Tested using a scientifically-proven biometric system in a real-life context, Immunight™ improves sleep quality while boosting the production of melatonin by skin cells to resynchronize skin circadian rhythm and recharge the skin defense system.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Immunight™ is an oil-soluble extract from lavandin organically grown in Provence, in the South of France, obtained with a proprietary green process and using plant-based solvents, standardized in monoterpenes.100% natural origin, COSMOS approved.
Supplier: LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS
Location: Quebec, Canada
Release Date: March 2023
Mirasoft® SL LINE
About
Multi-functional yeast-fermented glycolipids surfactants, Mirasoft® SL L60 and Mirasoft® SL A60 offers more than just functional properties. They also offers benefits for skin, hair and scalp, helping protect & improve skin/scalp conditions. Microbiome friendly certified.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Mirasoft® SL are 100% natural origin surfactants produced by fermentation of natural nutrients by natural yeast (Green fermentation process, for a low Net CO2 footprint). Non ethoxylated. Biodegradable by design & palm-free.
Supplier: SOLVAY
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: February 2023
Mirasoft® SL LINE
About
Syndopal® SHC 600-MB is an ultra-mild extruded syndet conditioner base. With cationic conditioning properties, Syndopal® SHC 600-MB has been created specifically for manufacturing ultra-mild luxurious solid conditioning bars. It creates natural shine and smoothness, reduces product build-up and makes hair more manageable.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
The product helps formulating solid products, concentrated and waterless. Certified Sustainable RSPO-MB, readily biodegradable.
Supplier: STEPHENSON
Location: England, United Kingdom
Release Date: April 2023
AURIST AGC
About
AURIST™ AGC is a readily biodegradable hair and skin cationic conditioning biopolymer. Compatible with a wide range of commonly used personal care ingredients, AURIST™ AGC is supplied in liquid form with applications in hair care, and skin and body wash applications. It can form completely transparent formulations, featured in the Quartz hair care formulation line presented by the brand.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Developed using IFF’s proprietary Designed Enzymatic Biopolymers (DEB) technology (ambient temperature and pressure, no harsh solvent), AURIST™ AGC is a polysaccharide derived from the enzymatic polymerization of glucose from responsibly sourced natural sugars. Readily biodegradable.
Supplier: IFF
Location: United States of America
Release Date: March 2023
LIFTYL™ BIOFUNCTIONAL
About
Extracted from rosewood sustainably grown in plantations in Peru. Liftyl™ biofunctional is designed to visibly lift and redefine facial contours, based on the latest ethno-genomic research in face sculpting. It addresses 7 face sculpting markers associated with specific facial regions and skin needs in Caucasian and Asian skin, and is alleged to offer an alternative to retinol, with similar proven-efficacy, suitable for sensitive skin.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
After steam distillation, the wood chips depleted in essential oil are upcycled and treated with supercritical CO2 and a bio-based cosolvent. This circular economy model valorizes a by-product from the fragrance industry, with a minimal use of natural resources while supporting the local and rural industry.
Supplier: ASHLAND
Location: United States of America
Release Date: October 2023
LIGNOGUARD®
About
LignoGuard® is a multifunctional ingredient compatible even with sensitive skin. In skin care applications LignoGuard® can serve multiple functions such as significantly reducing the amount of synthetic and mineral UV filters and serving as a natural antioxidant as well as an emulsion stabilizer. COSMOS approved.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
LignoGuard® is obtained by refining, purifying, and homogenizing a lignin raw material (LIGNOVA™) produced by upcycling of forestry and wood industry residues : sawdust, woodchips, and low-quality hardwood.
Supplier: LIGNOVATIONS
Location: Austria
Release Date: January 2023
New Formulations
TRIDI COSMIQ
About
A face serum 3D-printed ? That’s the Tridi Cosmiq technology. It can print a powder based product in a fully customizable way (fragrance, color, design), to combine creativity, sustainability and luxury. Each petal is a single dose. Easy to use, the consumer only has to add a few drop of water and apply directly.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Waterless, the finished product doesn’t need preservative and possesses all the advantage of a solid cosmetic. Ecodesigned to save water and energy during manufacturing, it also allows a unidose product without a single dose container.
Supplier: COSMOYA
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: October 2023
AIRFLOW TECHNOLOGY
About
A texture you will want to eat ! The new technical platform from Sicaf is the key for airy, whipped and fluffy textures, with a multisensorial experience for the consumer. With a wide range of possible richness (from light to extra rich), its versatility is a must for skincare, haircare, cleansing products or suncare.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
This technology allows the industrial production of stable whipped textures without propellant gas, silicons or elastomers. The formulas offer a high naturality (NOC > 98%).
Supplier: SICAF
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: June 2023
TABLET REHYDRATING RANGE
About
A texture you will want to eat ! The new technical platform from Sicaf is the key for airy, whipped and fluffy textures, with a multisensorial experience for the consumer. With a wide range of possible richness (from light to extra rich), its versatility is a must for skincare, haircare, cleansing products or suncare.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
This technology allows the industrial production of stable whipped textures without propellant gas, silicons or elastomers. The formulas offer a high naturality (NOC > 98%).
Supplier: SICAF
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: June 2023
HEATING CLEANSING STICK
About
A solid, heating skincare formula for deep skin cleansing. Transforms into a milky emulsion upon rinsing. Its heat helps to dilate the pores, making it easier to eliminate impurities. Heating effect activated by skin moisture. Easy to carry, it makes an ideal on the go cleansing product. Its oil base helps prevent skin dryness.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Its anhydrous & minimalist formula (8 strictly curated ingredients) was designed to reduce its environmental print and the use of resources (water sobriety). 100% of ingredients of natural origin. Formulated with sulfate-free surfactants.
Supplier: TECHNATURE
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: October 2023
GLISS & GREEN HYDRAMASK
About
The HydraMask is a 99.9% natural wave that glides over theskin, providing a unique touch thanks to our innovative cationic biobased conditioning agent. An incomparable sensoriality with a zest of vitamin C, for an instant hydration and radiance!
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
This 99.9% natural formula is formulated with CosmeGreen MB1618, a biosourced cationic conditioning agent, readily biodegradable. Moreover, the HydraMask formulation process is very simple.
Supplier: SURFACTGREEN
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: January 2023
APPLE LINE
About
Ecodesigned range based on the apple, developed in partnership with JRS RETTENMAIER. Composed of 4 essential products (hair mask, hand cream, rich cream and moisturizing mist), it is a minimalist formulation line, without emulsifiers or perfume. The products have a boosted sensoriality, with a soft texture that provides the skin with the beauty benefits of apples: draining, moisturising and antioxidant.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Apple Line is formulated with natural ingredients that come from the apple’s food waste produced by the cider production in Normandy (France). It puts forward the valorization of food waste using ingredients from apple upcycling.
Supplier: HERBAROM X JRS RETTENMAIER
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: March 2023
TAB&CARE BY NUWEN
About
Developed using Tab&Care technology, this tablet is the result of compressing powder composed of natural ingredients and allows the delivery of the right dose of product. This new product, easily refillable, promises a unique sensory experience thanks to a generous and creamy foam. Dissolved in water, the tablets make it possible to obtain a hygiene product, such as a body shower gel or a hand wash.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Formulated without water, the solid form allows a minimalist formula and logistics with less impact for the planet. COSMOS Natural compatible.
Supplier: NUWEN
Location: France, Europe
Release Date: September 2023
Sustainable Processes
CARBODISTILLATION
About
Carbodistillation is an alternative to hydrodistillation to produce essential oils. It involves supercritical CO2 instead of steaming water, offering the possibility of working on heat-sensitive molecule. The extract obtained is as close as possible to the plant, which brings new possibilities not only for fragrance materials, but also for actives.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
Carbodistillation is a fast, low-CO2, low-temperature process. It allows optimization of the extraction compared to hydrodistillation, and valorization of co-products that are not “cooked” by the process. Supercritical CO2 is an alternative to organic solvents.
Supplier: SFE PROCESS
Location: France, Europe
ECOCATALYSIS
About
BIOINSPIR designs high-performance, safe, responsible and sustainably available catalysts that comply with current and future REACH regulations. The structure of ecocatalysts® allows the implementation of more efficient chemical syntheses: better yield, low catalytic loads, reduction of the number of steps, frugal synthesis conditions, absence of solvent.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
The biomasses transformed by BIOINSPIR represent a threat to biodiversity and the environment (invasive species). Valorized by processes, they become tools for sustainable chemistry.
Supplier: BIOINSPIR
Location: France, Europe
POLYPHENOL BIOCONVERSION
About
EXTRASYNTHESE designed a process to obtain new and optimized bioactives, using a yeast based platform to biochemically modify natural ingredients (polyphenols). It allows access to rare natural or similar-to-nature ingredients by green biotechnologies.
Why it’s interesting / sustainable?
This yeast based process helps to optimize the production of actives, and to spare natural ressource, using green biochemistry.
Supplier: EXTRASYNTHESE
Location: France, Europe
