NeoCosm, a new technology transforming powdered bulk into cosmetics

Partners since 2022, Squarexpert, Tectic and Rheonis - specialists respectively in formulation, processes and behaviour of materials - have just filed a patent protecting a technical process and devices for the automatic and instantaneous industrial-quality textured products from solid concentrates.

This breakthrough technology opens up new horizons for the development of bulk packaging and reuse, reducing the use of plastic and environmental costs, while delivering an unprecedented customer experience.

The process: Powder-Liquid co Jetting (PLcJ)®

NeoCosm's technology is based on the patented Powder-Liquid co-Jetting (PLcJ)® process, which brings directed flows of powders and liquids into localised contact to produce industrial-quality textured products. Eliminating the need for mechanical homogenisation, reducing energy consumption and limiting cleaning requirements, this process, which can be used in small electrical appliances, automatic dispensers and industrial processes, opens up the possibility of continuous, on-demand production of products with tailor-made galenics and textures.

An eco-design Microfactory for cosmetics products

By combining the manufacturing and packaging operations for textured products in a single stage, this is a kind of ‘micro-factory’ for cosmetic products that could eventually be installed at points of sale, places of use or at home. Operating automatically and on demand, variable volumes of products can be packaged almost instantaneously. The use of precursors in solid form (loose or compacted powders) offers the prospect of significant space savings at points of sale, as well as substantial savings in logistics and environmental costs. The absence of a mechanical mixing device considerably reduces cleaning requirements, enabling products to be prepared at high speed at the point of sale for potentially diverse galenic formulations, from a single brand or several. The technology also enables products to be customised by adding colourings, flavourings and other special ingredients on demand. At home or at the point of use, it becomes possible to have freshly reconstituted cosmetics, potentially free of preservatives and without intermediate packaging.

A Technological Advancement

Currently in the prototype stage, the technology is capable of producing 100ml of homogeneous, stable gel product in less than a minute from commercial or proprietary powder formulations and water. R&D work is currently underway to prepare other galenic formulations, as well as for other industrial applications.

A Timely Innovation

On the legislative front:

• The European Union is considering a ban on the use of hygiene products in bottles of less than 100ml in hotels from 2027.
• The Climate and Resilience Act, in France, intends to impose an area dedicated to bulk products of around 20% of the surface area of retail outlets with a surface area of more than 400m2, by January 2030.
• The AGEC Act, in France, which aims to reduce waste in all its forms, specifically targets the elimination of single-use plastic by 2040.

On the industrial front:

• Through its ‘Plastic Act’, the Fédération des Entreprises de la Beauté (FEBEA) is committed to reducing by 15% the consumption of 55kT of cosmetic plastic packaging per year. It is estimated that between 200 and 300 250ml bottles are filled every minute in France, and that 186 million shower gel bottles are sold in France every year.
• The cosmetics industry recently highlighted the challenges of ‘water sobriety’ in the sector, given the massive use of water in the manufacture of products. Hygiene products generally contain between 80% and 95% water by mass for shower gels and shampoos.

Various brands have integrated refill fountain practices (Thierry Mugler in 1992 for perfumes, The Perfumers multi-brand recently, l'Occitane en Provence and a consortium led by Pierre Fabre in the parapharmacy sector).

Customers who are sensitive to sustainable consumption are turning to the bulk products and solid cosmetics markets, favouring savings on single-use packaging, resources (water, energy), fewer preservatives, nomadism, practicality, waste reduction and economic gains. (source: trend journal - Natexpo 2022).

Future Outlook

The prospects opened up by NeoCosm technology for the development of eco-responsible consumption require, in addition to the technical challenges, the implementation of innovative economic models and the structuring of the sector.

The partners, Rheonis, SquareExpert and Tectic, are planning to set up a start-up to support and drive the development of this technology.

The partners involved in this innovation

• Rheonis is a private, independent laboratory and centre of expertise for industry, specialising in the physical behaviour and transformations of complex materials.
• SquareExpert is a technical and marketing consultancy for the beauty industry with expertise in formulation and specialised in the development of solid cosmetics.
• Tectic is a process innovation consultancy mainly dedicated to the cosmetics sector.