From plant-based PDRN, functional naturals, and exosomes ... a few of the trends seen at InCosmetics 2026

re/sources’ editors attended to bring you their pick of the top trends and launches to aid you in your sustainable beauty journey through 2026 and beyond.  

PLANT PDRN 

PDRN, full name polydeoxyribonucleotide, is one of skin care’s biggest buzzwords. Known for stimulating cellular repair, boosting collagen and improving skin elasticity, the regenerative compound initially rose to fame as the aesthetics industry’s ‘salmon sperm injection,’ before becoming associated with topical K-beauty skin care. 

Cosmetic ingredient suppliers, however, spotted demand for plant-derived versions involving neither salmon, nor their emissions – and some key launches in Paris involved plant PDRN.    

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant introduced AlgaSurge, a highly-purified sulfated polysaccharide (SP) hydrogel that biomimics the benefits of hyaluronic acid (HA) but also serves as a botanical alternative to PDRN. Its high molecular weight SP fractions form a protective film, while low molecular weight components (SP and PDRN) penetrate deeper, resulting in increased skin plumpness after a single application, improved skin density, and an immediately strengthened barrier function. 

On the green side, Codif launched a PDRN Phycopeptide, a multi-active biotechnological anti-ageing complex powered by Chlorella PDRN and Chlorella Phycopeptides (green algae micro-cell). It is a vegetal-based PDRN to boost skin regeneration and phycopeptides to boost collagen synthesis in skin layers.

Vytrus Biotech, meanwhile, unveiled new studies on plant-based PDRN; the Spanish firm successfully identified and isolated PDRN-like molecules from its plant cell culture platforms, specifically from stem cells of Daucus carota and Centella asiatica. A milestone in this research was the discovery of PDRN within plant exosomes for the first time, with Vytrus confirming the presence of trademarked ExoPDRN within the secretome of its CENTELLA REVERSA ingredient. 

EXOSOMES

On the topic of exosomes, the small-but-mighty messengers continued to dominate innovation activity. dsm-firmenich introduced EXOVIVE LIFT, plant-derived exosomes sourced from cooperatives across Italy and developed in partnership with EXOLAB Italia, which have demonstrated Impressive visible reduction of wrinkles’ depth.

Solabia’s Bloomlight, meanwhile, is an exosome-rich active ingredient from organic lemon thyme that switches off the sensory neurons involved in the pigmentation pathway in a new concept for pigmentation prevention. Containing over a billion exosomes per millilitre,  Bloomlight supports the reduction of stress‑driven signalling and rebalances cross‑talk between skin cells involved in pigmentation disorders, with Solabia positioning the ingredient as a holistic answer to pigmentation as a skin longevity challenge.

Symrise likewise targeted the longevity and wellness category with Cellexora MD, a cosmetic ingredient based on exosomes that is 100% plant-derived from upcycled organic apple side streams in Italy. Cellexora MD supports collagen production, contributing to improvements in skin firmness, elasticity and resilience. It’s also associated with soothing pathways that help maintain a balanced and comfortable skin environment. 

POST-PROCEDURAL

 A growing skin care segment, as evidenced by activity in Paris, was to support skin resilience generally, but following aesthetic treatments specifically. Under its Silab Softcare platform for compromised skin, Silab launched CICACTYL, a natural active ingredient developed to accelerate and improve the efficacy of the skin healing process. A 100% natural ingredient obtained from organic Mediterranean carob gum (Ceratonia siliqua), CICACTYL supports the formation of granulation tissue, improves the vascular network, stimulates wound re-epithelialisation and reduces inflammation, reducing erythema, wound drying and scabbing, making it suitable for this category.   

Givaudan, meanwhile, repositioned its medium molecular weight PrimalHyal 300 as a skin healing accelerator, contributing to restoring the skin barrier, soothing irritation and accelerating recovery even after the harshest of procedures; it does so uniquely by boosting the expression of bleomycin hydrolase, a key enzyme in accelerating and enhancing skin regeneration. 

Likewise, dsm-firmenich’s new GLYCARE SK are bio-identical, fermentation-derived active ingredients that replicate human milk oligosaccharides, aka unique sugar molecules present in mother’s milk. Offering resilience and protection, the GLYCARE SK range features two ingredients, GLYCARE SK RENEW – an advanced protocol, which is said to be ideal for rosacea, retinol burn and post-proceduce or at-home peel healing – and GLYCARE SK COMFORT, developed to provide everyday resilience for sensitive skin.   

Sensitive skin was also a focus for BASF, which launched Plantagenix Bisabolol, a biotechnologically-produced soothing active that replaces traditional sourcing from chamomile or wild trees, ensuring consistent purity and avoiding pressure on natural resources. Moreover, the process yields only the most biologically active and naturally-occurring isomer, offering superior purity compared with synthetic grades.  

Symrise, meanwhile, introduced the result of an interesting advancement in its SymFrequency Extraction technology. SymConcentrole Barrier Boost is the active molecules of upcycled pineapple hearts that have been selectively extracted using coconut oil as the organic solvent and carrier for the first time. The resulting active strengthens the skin barrier while also improving skin elasticity and firmness.

ADVANCED DELIVERY

This year’s newcomers included novel approaches to the optimal delivery of active ingredients. Croda built on the legacy of its Matrixyl peptide, which supports firmer, healthier-looking skin, with its new Matrixyl Neolide. The new edition introduces a patented encapsulation technology that protects the peptide within cosmetic formulations and releases it gradually once applied to the skin. Matrixyl Neolide not only ensures controlled peptide release for up to 15 days, but enables formulators to create more robust products.

Syensqo’s new Cerafy Clear NP Boost solves the problem of bringing skin barrier-reinforcing ceramides into clear formulations. Cerafy Clear NP Boost is a delivery system of ceramide NP-loaded liposomes combined with a biocompatible polymer. It optimises ceramide release into the stratum corneum, while also facilitating their skin care benefits in transparent, water-based formulations. 

Givaudan’s 2026 slew of HA innovation continued with VectorHyal. This delivery system is based on high-molecular-weight HA and can encapsulate either Givaudan’s active ingredients or the client’s own. The capsules are transparent (ideal for incorporation into clear serums), facilitate deeper penetration of the encapsulated material, and, being HA-based, also provide skin hydrating and smoothing activity.

TOUCHY FEELY

A third Givaudan launch, PrimalHyal NeuroYouth, tapped an emerging trend for the power of touch. This well-ageing ingredient is based on the role of cutaneous nerve fibres in skin ageing, with Givaudan identifying specific amino acids able to act directly on skin nerve fibres. PrimalHyal NeuroYouth is based on the vectorisation of very low molecular weight HA to ensure optimal delivery of the amino acids deeper into the skin to restore the health and youth of nerve fibres. The ingredient also benefits from Givaudan’s switch last year to a more-sustainable, yeast-led process, which enables the production of low molecular weight HA directly during the fermentation process with no hydrolysis stage required. 

To bring its ingredients to life during the show, Givaudan teamed up with Haut.AI and its new GenAI-powered simulation that allowed visitors to digitally ‘try on’ PrimalHyal NeuroYouth and visualise its effects on their own skin over time. 

Another sensory touch active ingredient came courtesy of RAHN, which won Gold in the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient’s Active Ingredients category for CALNEURIN-SENSE, a chicory roots extract for skin that looks radiant and feels exciting to the touch. The ingredient stimulates Staphylococcus epidermidis-mediated signalling, promoting the release of dopamine and oxytocin. Measurement of gamma wave activity showed enhanced brain activity in the left frontal cortex of people caressing CALNEURIN-SENSE-treated arms, indicating a positive and socially interactive emotional response.  

FUNCTIONAL PLUS CARE

A standout trend in functionals was materials for wash-off that also provide skin care benefits. New from Evonik was RHEANCE Soft GO, a fermentation-produced cleansing agent made from glycolipids. The ingredient helps reduce transepidermal water loss for better skin barrier health. Clariant’s Hostapon CT solid, salt-free taurate surfactant, helps create a longer-lasting, cloud-like foam that is suitable for sensitive and dry skin applications. It is said to be ideal for clear formulations that also provide silky lubricity.    

Surfiness Hydra from Hallstar is not a surfactant, but is instead a supporting system for cleansing. A water-friendly emollient, it is claimed to work especially well in cleansing formulations made with SLS, or other traditional surfactants. It helps with sensory and provides a nice afterfeel, but it also helps reduce erythema associated with harsher cleansers. 

A 100% plant-based solution for rinse-off from Symrise that premiered at in-cosmetics Global 2026 was Mindera Euca. Developed to support broad-spectrum product protection to reinforce the reliability of formulations, the sustainably-sourced, eucalyptus-based Mindera Euca also results in the formation of denser, silkier and richer foam with a great after-feel.

NATURAL FUNCTIONALS 

Naturals that can replace synthetic functional ingredients with no compromise on efficacy, or, ideally, greater efficacy and/or ancillary benefits are beauty’s Holy Grail.   

ViscoPure from Solabia Group’s PolymerExpert, the Gold winner in the Functional Ingredient category of the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards, is one such ingredient. A 100% bio-based water gellant, ViscoPure bridges the performance gap between naturals and carbomers, which are still often used as the alternatives can be stringy or clumpy. The ingredient is an optimised mix of modified konjac gum and xanthan gum that provides 20 times higher thickening than xanthan gum alone at 0.1%. Solabia worked on the structure of the polysaccharides to improve and increase their interactions, resulting in a super-cohesive gel with a honeycomb structure. ViscoPure ensures high efficacy even at very low use levels and has been shown to outperform the sensory experience of carbomer-containing formulations in terms of freshness.  

Ashland’s Stabileze S polymer was previewed at the show ahead of a September launch. A single starch-based rheology modifier, the ingredient makes the formulator’s life easier at all stages. Stabileze S is positioned as a replacement for acrylate-based rheology modifiers and is suitable for creating versatile textures, from sprayable fluids to buttery creams. But additionally, unlike a lot of natural acrylates alternatives, is not a blend, enabling a minimalist INCI list. It is also cold processable with a low recommended usage level (1-1.5%) compared with many starches, thereby providing cost savings. 

Citrolatum P from P2, meanwhile, a 1:1 drop-in replacement for petrolatum. A renewable product from pine terpenes, it mimics the rich texture, occlusivity and skin barrier benefits of conventional petrolatum while maintaining 99% naturality. Citrolatum P represents the upcycling of an upcycled product originally derived from the wood and pulp industry, and its patented formation process is solvent free. 

CLIMATE ADAPTIVE 

As climate extremes become the new normal, in-cosmetics Global 2026 exhibitors explored how they can contribute to the nascent climate-adaptive beauty trend. dsm-firmenich’s ALPAFLOR NEUROSOOTH is a heat-adaptive bioactive that has been designed to help interrupt the skin-mind stress loop. By inhibiting key neuroinflammatory mediators involved in stress signaling and boosting β-endorphin production, the ingredient helps reduce irritation, restore comfort and reinforce barrier resilience under environmental stress.

Derived from Scutellaria alpina – an Alpine plant – ALPAFLOR NEUROSOOTH is produced in a climate-responsible manner from organically-grown plants on Alpine moraines at high altitude, ensuring zero impact on wild populations. 

This emerging category was also noted by Gattefossé, which launched SILKARESS, drawing inspiration from the silkworm, which builds a cocoon thanks to the nutrients it metabolises exclusively from white mulberry leaves (Morus alba). By modulating the phosphorylation status of various adhesion junctions and structural proteins, SILKARESS supports the keratinocytes' ability to rapidly adapt their barrier function to external climatic conditions.

BEST OF THE REST 

Core Biogenesis, peaureva: A biomimetic fibroblast growth factor-2 fused to an oleosome delivery system, this scalp active targets the five biological drivers of scalp ageing with clinical results in as little as 28 days.   

Provital, Intensilk: Provital brings its longevity mindset to body sculpting with Intensilk, an apple flower-sourced cellulite treatment that demonstrates remodelling action on both adipocyte metabolism and tissue architecture. 

Sethic, ILLUMETA: This next-generation Super-Metabiotic – a multi-fungi co-culture fermentation of Koshihikari brown rice – is the first cosmetic ingredient to combine post-melanogenesis brightening with skin texture restoration for a glass skin optical effect.  

Ashland, easy-hance: Developed for textured hair, this wetting agent enables faster wetting without relying on high levels or oils, silicones, humectants or emollients, facilitating a smoother and faster hair washing experience for curls, coils and kinks.    

Seppic, Macroage: A novel approach to inflammaging that focuses on resolution, not suppression, this Macrocystis pyrifera seaweed-based active aids the ‘clean up and repair’ phase that prevents the influx of new inflammatory cells.  

Evonik, ECOHANCE Soft BOL: A sustainable ester oil for skin, sun and colour cosmetics, ECOHANCE Soft BOL offers an exceptionally silky sensorial comparable with D5, except it hails from upcycled feedstocks. These include fatty acids from inedible olive oil residue and butanol derived from whisky production waste from Scotland.