A new way to lipstick, is that even possible?
Photo by Guido Fuà / Unsplash

A new way to lipstick, is that even possible?

Eva Lagarde

Following a recent interview with Thierry de Baschmakoff, we uncover the secret behind its latest design of a refillable lipstick. The idea creates a new way to design a lipstick, yet, remains intuitive and does not change the way consumers would use or hold this iconic beauty item

A new mechanism without changing the gesture

Looking at current lipstick mechanisms, the sleeve goes up and down and must remain standard in design to offer a sleek surface to allow the mechanism to work smoothly, so the bulk can move up and down. In some cases, the mechanism is called “guided” when lipstick formula is tightly moulded to the sleeve, so it doesn’t break at usage. When the lipstick is “non-guided” it means that the formula is somewhat “harder” and the bulk can stand on its own, even when applied to the lips with a little pressure.

With the new concept developed by the agency, the sleeve goes up and down but the bulk remains safely in place inside the packaging. Usually the bulk goes up with the sleeve, a system of piston allowing the bulk to move up and down.

Now with the new concept, only the sleeve around the bulk moves and the bulk remains in place. Again, the bulk does not move and remains safely in place, so it prevents potential breakage. 

Bulk protection with design flexibility

Leading La French Company agency, Thierry Land reveals that “ 99% of the users have accidentally crushed the bulk and it was quite irreversible. With CHEEKY, this will be almost impossible.”

“ The heart of design is to return to the meaning of the word design in its most essential expression, the function creates the form. We start from a known functionality from which we create a new generation of products," explains designer Thierry de Baschmakoff.

"New concept, new patent, new gesture, new technical heart. The heart of design is a reveal of products thought from an unexpected angle. It is also an opportunity to collaborate with the industry. The best way to generate innovation is to associate the designer and the manufacturer, “ adds Thierry de Baschmakoff

Thierry de Baschmakoff

The opportunity for the designer lies in the elevation of the brand design thanks to a fully customisable lipstick including the sleeve. 

Until now, only the bottom and cap were imprinted with the brand specific design, with the “cheeky” design the sleeve became an area of expression for the brand for a full rounded experience for the consumer. Cheeky can be fully customised where others cannot.

The design works with a guided or non-guided mechanism and speed of the mechanism (moving up and down) can be customised depending on the formula and brand desire.

Further applications and sustainability

The design concept allows for multiple applications. It’s a multi-purpose mechanism with applications for lipstick, stick foundation, concealer, solid perfumes, Kabuki brushes, and more.

Cheeky can be made from a single material and is also completely separable, making it truly recyclable, something that is impossible with most mechanisms.

Cheeky is also refillable, and can also allow 3D printing applications for limited editions of refills for instance. It is designed to be easily refilled, which will also help to increase the interest from consumers.

The refill cartridge can be removed just by turning it and bringing up the mechanism so the refill can be taken off at the end and reinserted similarly with a click.

Cheeky is the first fixed lipstick that can be designed in mono-material solution for full recyclability.

The filling system with Cheeky will be the same as the current lipstick mechanism so it can be easily adapted to your current supply chain. Depending on the production line, it also helps to reduce waste, which is relatively high in the lipstick industry.

A team behind the project

The project has been developed by the agency led by designer Thierry de Baschmakoff, with the support of seasoned packaging expert Gérald Martines and Augros packaging manufacturer with Didier Bourgine and Andreea Bradean as well agency team members including Chloé Meyer and Lionel Bringant.

A team united under the company C.A.P. - Clever Alternatives Products.