Beauty innovations seen at Cosmoprof Bologna
From spray-foam-to-pad beauty, to hazelnut-based packaging, to blue beauty with ocean-sourced innovations, Cosmoprof Bologna - which gathered about 250,000 visitors with over 3,000 exhibitors from 64 countries and more than 10,000 brands - didn’t disappoint in beauty innovations.
Formulation innovations
A spray that foams into a pad? What am I talking about? I went to see Colep, which was nominated for an award. They have created a spray that forms a foam that hardens into a pad.
Called “Skin Sync Clean Slate Make-Up Remover Pad with DERMAPAD technology”. A formula and application pad that becomes one in an aerosol-to-pad make-up remover technology. The formula is dispensed as a snow-like foam that transforms into a soft, cotton-like pad through precision aerodynamics and polymer structuring. To use, the can is sprayed in a circular motion to form a disc on the hand. This is then pressed lightly together to form the pad, before the pad is wiped over the face to remove make-up. The innovation is powered by an ice-foam-to-pad technology, with a polymeric structuring system that creates the pad’s stable, cotton-like texture. And the product’s aerodynamic control allows for repeatable pad size and density. Within the formula, the functional active ingredients include Puriflex, a biodegradable, sulfate-free surfactant that’s gentle on skin and eyes, and propanediol, a plant-based humectant and emollient blend that hydrates the skin and improves the skin barrier, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.
Cosmax (Korea) won the skincare formulation innovation with “1000 Trillion Moisturiser”. A nano-emulsion moisturiser is centred around droplet density rather than droplet size, to allow for a lightweight formula with high oil levels. The nano-emulsion structure is engineered through high-pressure homogenization, which allows for the control of both the nano-scale droplet size and ultra-high droplet density. This means that alongside its ultra-high-density droplet structure, the formula maintains a translucent appearance and a lightweight feel, even at oil levels of up to 30%. The formula takes the idea of “invisible density” as its inspiration, delivering deep hydration without heaviness, providing comfortable, long-lasting moisture and a healthy skin appearance. The formula can be used alone or combined with a toner or essence, and is designed for dry to very dry skin.
Sustainable Beauty
In the Sustainability category, Origin by Ocean won with Oceanboost™ LF: an ocean-regenerating high-purity bioactive for inflammaging defence (Sustainable Ingredient). Oceanboost™ is a versatile, water-soluble polysaccharide that addresses inflammaging. This fucoidan ingredient – meaning it’s a polysaccharide derived from the cell walls of brown algae – is upcycled from an invasive algae species that negatively impacts ecosystems by blocking light and depleting oxygen. By removing the seaweed before it reaches the shore and decomposes, the harvesting regenerates marine ecosystems and positively impacts coastal communities. In this way, the ingredient bridges the gap between biotechnology and environmental regeneration, transforming the ecological burden of invasive Sargassum into a bioactive that visibly reduces the appearance of inflammaging. The ingredient itself is extracted using a patented green-chemistry-based biorefinery process. Acting to address inflammaging, sensitivity, and redness in the skin, the ingredient is compatible with skin care and colour cosmetic formulations, remains stable across a broad pH range, and can be integrated into the aqueous phase of emulsions, gels, and serums.
Packaging innovations
Berlin Packaging has developed an innovative PP material (XOCO) made from upcycled hazelnut shells (from the manufacturing of chocolate). Designed for the beauty sector, it enables the creation of functional and decorative components with a distinctive textural signature, created by the visible organic particles, thereby reinforcing the product’s sustainable narrative.
This solution has been developed in collaboration with Krill Design, a company specialised in transforming organic waste into functional fillers.
Xoco integrates alternative fillers derived from production residues into selected packaging components, combined with a PP base. Used at a 10% concentration, these fillers allow brands to reuse waste generated during formula manufacturing while maintaining the same performance and durability as standard PP packaging. At this level, the integration of alternative fillers does not compromise recyclability, enabling Xoco components to be disposed of within standard plastic recycling streams and ensuring proper end-of-life management.
Berlin Packaging Beauty has also developed Metal-free, available in dosages from 30ml, 50ml to 500ml, including 2 new pumps for multi-dosage control via a rotating actuator. Usually, metal-free pumps work more easily in personal care with high-viscosity formulas, as the components are slightly larger. In this instance, Berlin has developed smaller pumps for different viscosities and applications in all areas of beauty and personal care.
The metal-free pumps are available in both airless and atmospheric systems, and are designed to simplify material compatibility while delivering a precise beauty gesture. Entirely free of metallic components inside the dispensing chamber and formulated without POM, these pumps offer improved sustainability while supporting a premium sensory experience for consumers.
The pumps offer the recyclability element to support upcoming European regulations under the PPWR (Packaging and Packaging Waste Directive), which require manufacturers to offer products that are recyclable at scale by 2030.
As for the awards, in the packaging, Shinkwang M&P won with Air Mist Gas-Free Spray System. A gas-free spray system powered by mechanical air compression, providing an alternative to aerosol propellants. In contrast to traditional aerosol formats, this eliminates flammability risks and transport restrictions while maintaining stable 360° atomization. The mechanism’s air-and-formula architecture, separated, additionally enhances product integrity and operational safety. The packaging is designed with a metal, spring-free internal structure, and a precision-engineered nozzle and actuator geometry for consistent atomization. The outer bottle is made from recyclable PET with lightweight PP structural components. Added to this, the system’s modular platform offers different capacity options tailored to specific product applications. As the latest version of this innovation, the bottle features interchangeable applicators for compatibility with hair care, body care, and massage products.
In the accessory category
HCP Packaging released a mascara fibre made of cellulose. FusionFibre Technology is a breakthrough for mascara and brow innovation, delivering smoother application, richer payoff and instinctive precision. Made from regenerated cellulose sourced from FSC-certified Swedish pine and spruce, these fibres offer a renewable, fast-growing alternative to traditional synthetics. Its high-performance micro-porous structure acts like a microscopic sponge—loading more formula in one dip, then releasing it in controlled, ultra-thin layers for effortless building and crisp definition. On contact with mascara, brow gels or tubing systems, the fibres soften instantly, creating a cushioned glide while maintaining separation and accuracy.
Designed to pair seamlessly with care-infused lash and brow formulas, FusionFibres allow lipophilic ingredients to coat the fibre naturally during application, enhancing comfort and sensory appeal without altering brush geometry or formula behaviour. Future-ready and highly versatile, FusionFibre empowers brands across high-impact mascaras, brow gels, lifters and treatment-led hybrids—delivering results that feel effortless and exceptional.
